[sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project.. slowly but surely ..

[ColinMuirDorward]

One possible solution I have not tried yet is to make a custom footprint
for one of these 11mm (or thereabouts) rise toggle switches that carves out
holes where some of the plastic body protrudes below the box. In some cases
it could be enough to reduce the rise to close to 10mm.

As for the subminiature toggles, they seem to work well in a 10mm rise
environment. The collar is long enough that the washers and fixings can
make up the gap.

On Mon, Nov 9, 2020 at 1:19 PM info synthcube.com <info at synthcube.com>
wrote:

> Switches are the main issue here--- pots and jacks work well together, but
> most of the ‘standard’ DIY switches don’t seem to work from a height
> standpoint--- neither the mini toggles, nor the submini toggles—and
> rotaries- fuhgeddaboudit
>
>
>
> *From:* ColinMuirDorward <colindorward at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, November 9, 2020 5:15 PM
> *To:* David G Dixon <dixon at mail.ubc.ca>
> *Cc:* Dave Brown <davebr at modularsynthesis.com>; info synthcube.com <
> info at synthcube.com>; jpdesroc at oricom.ca; tom at electricdruid.net; john slee
> <indigoid at oldcorollas.org>; Synth-diy at synth-diy.org
> *Subject:* Re: [sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project..
> slowly but surely ..
>
>
>
> Is anyone using Song Huei R1212N-M
> <http://www.song-huei.com/exec/product.php?mod=show&cid=58&pid=R1212N-MetalShaft&lg=E>
> ?
>
>
>
> Vertical mount potentiometer, 10mm rise, mechanical mounting points, A, B,
> C, W tapers available, rated for 15000 cycles.
>
>
>
> 10mm rise puts them in the same family as the usual PCB-mount eurorack
> minijacks.
>
> The missing link for me is a nice group of switches to choose from. I'm
> using more shallow (8mm rise/) subminiature SPST toggles right now, which
> fit well, but they are not really good quality feeling.
>
>
>
> Colin
>
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2020 at 12:49 PM David G Dixon <dixon at mail.ubc.ca> wrote:
>
> That's a good idea if you have the panel at hand.  Sometimes, I am making
> PCBs for a client and the actual panel is in a different country.
>
>
>
> For the pots I use, the solder tabs tend to bend slightly as needed to
> adjust to the correct spacing.  In any case, I lay out all my panels and my
> PCBs on a strict 0.1" spacing grid, so things generally slip into their
> respective holes with ease.  The most unforgiving parts are switches with
> two or more rows of tabs, such as DPDT switches.  These must be aligned
> correctly.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Dave Brown [mailto:davebr at modularsynthesis.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, November 09, 2020 12:08 PM
> *To:* 'David G Dixon'; 'info synthcube.com'; jpdesroc at oricom.ca;
> tom at electricdruid.net
> *Cc:* 'john slee'; 'Synth-diy at synth-diy.org'
> *Subject:* RE: [sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project..
> slowly but surely ..
>
> [*CAUTION:* Non-UBC Email]
>
> I do this for all panel components – pots, jacks, switches, and LEDs. I’ll
> tack solder just one lead so I can get the panel on and everything aligned.
> Typically the pots aren’t quite at the right height and this puts stress on
> the phenolic which can crack.   Once the panel is on I reflow the jacks,
> pots, and switches. Sometimes I can hear a “pop” as the pot lead relaxes
> and it adjusts to the correct height. I do the LEDs as you described.
>
>
>
> Someone once sent me a Buchla 248 with all the switches soldered on with
> no panel. Of course none of them lined up and it is hard to remove the
> solder completely so you can realign. I ended up having to redrill all 35
> switch holes oversize and file some to fit.
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> *From:* Synth-diy [mailto:synth-diy-bounces at synth-diy.org] *On Behalf Of *David
> G Dixon
> *Sent:* Monday, November 09, 2020 11:43 AM
> *To:* 'info synthcube.com'; jpdesroc at oricom.ca; tom at electricdruid.net
> *Cc:* 'john slee'; 'Synth-diy at synth-diy.org'
> *Subject:* Re: [sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project..
> slowly but surely ..
>
>
>
> LEDs can also be a challenge to solder into panel PCBs as they might not
> be at the correct height for poking through the panel.  The best way to
> install LEDs is to first install all of the other components, then stuff
> the LED leads into the PCB loosely, then actually attach the panel (with at
> least a few nuts) and push the LEDs into their panel holes while the panel
> sits upsidedown on the bench.  In this way, all the LEDs are at the correct
> height.  I have also made LED jigs from scraps of PCB material (of which I
> have many pounds!) that bridge two adjacent components.
>
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>
>
> --
>
> https://www.instagram.com/colinmuirdorward/
>
> -
> <https://www.instagram.com/colinmuirdorward/>
>
> https://www.instagram.com/ssdp_synthesis/
>


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