[sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project.. slowly but surely ..

[ColinMuirDorward]

 Is anyone using Song Huei R1212N-M
<http://www.song-huei.com/exec/product.php?mod=show&cid=58&pid=R1212N-MetalShaft&lg=E>
?

Vertical mount potentiometer, 10mm rise, mechanical mounting points, A, B,
C, W tapers available, rated for 15000 cycles.

10mm rise puts them in the same family as the usual PCB-mount eurorack
minijacks.
The missing link for me is a nice group of switches to choose from. I'm
using more shallow (8mm rise/) subminiature SPST toggles right now, which
fit well, but they are not really good quality feeling.

Colin

On Mon, Nov 9, 2020 at 12:49 PM David G Dixon <dixon at mail.ubc.ca> wrote:

> That's a good idea if you have the panel at hand.  Sometimes, I am making
> PCBs for a client and the actual panel is in a different country.
>
> For the pots I use, the solder tabs tend to bend slightly as needed to
> adjust to the correct spacing.  In any case, I lay out all my panels and my
> PCBs on a strict 0.1" spacing grid, so things generally slip into their
> respective holes with ease.  The most unforgiving parts are switches with
> two or more rows of tabs, such as DPDT switches.  These must be aligned
> correctly.
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Dave Brown [mailto:davebr at modularsynthesis.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, November 09, 2020 12:08 PM
> *To:* 'David G Dixon'; 'info synthcube.com'; jpdesroc at oricom.ca;
> tom at electricdruid.net
> *Cc:* 'john slee'; 'Synth-diy at synth-diy.org'
> *Subject:* RE: [sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project..
> slowly but surely ..
>
> [*CAUTION:* Non-UBC Email]
>
> I do this for all panel components – pots, jacks, switches, and LEDs. I’ll
> tack solder just one lead so I can get the panel on and everything aligned.
> Typically the pots aren’t quite at the right height and this puts stress on
> the phenolic which can crack.   Once the panel is on I reflow the jacks,
> pots, and switches. Sometimes I can hear a “pop” as the pot lead relaxes
> and it adjusts to the correct height. I do the LEDs as you described.
>
>
>
> Someone once sent me a Buchla 248 with all the switches soldered on with
> no panel. Of course none of them lined up and it is hard to remove the
> solder completely so you can realign. I ended up having to redrill all 35
> switch holes oversize and file some to fit.
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> *From:* Synth-diy [mailto:synth-diy-bounces at synth-diy.org] *On Behalf Of *David
> G Dixon
> *Sent:* Monday, November 09, 2020 11:43 AM
> *To:* 'info synthcube.com'; jpdesroc at oricom.ca; tom at electricdruid.net
> *Cc:* 'john slee'; 'Synth-diy at synth-diy.org'
> *Subject:* Re: [sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project..
> slowly but surely ..
>
>
>
> LEDs can also be a challenge to solder into panel PCBs as they might not
> be at the correct height for poking through the panel.  The best way to
> install LEDs is to first install all of the other components, then stuff
> the LED leads into the PCB loosely, then actually attach the panel (with at
> least a few nuts) and push the LEDs into their panel holes while the panel
> sits upsidedown on the bench.  In this way, all the LEDs are at the correct
> height.  I have also made LED jigs from scraps of PCB material (of which I
> have many pounds!) that bridge two adjacent components.
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