[sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project.. slowly but surely ..

[Dave Brown]

I do this for all panel components - pots, jacks, switches, and LEDs. I'll
tack solder just one lead so I can get the panel on and everything aligned.
Typically the pots aren't quite at the right height and this puts stress on
the phenolic which can crack.   Once the panel is on I reflow the jacks,
pots, and switches. Sometimes I can hear a "pop" as the pot lead relaxes and
it adjusts to the correct height. I do the LEDs as you described.

 

Someone once sent me a Buchla 248 with all the switches soldered on with no
panel. Of course none of them lined up and it is hard to remove the solder
completely so you can realign. I ended up having to redrill all 35 switch
holes oversize and file some to fit.


Dave

 

From: Synth-diy [mailto:synth-diy-bounces at synth-diy.org] On Behalf Of David
G Dixon
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2020 11:43 AM
To: 'info synthcube.com'; jpdesroc at oricom.ca; tom at electricdruid.net
Cc: 'john slee'; 'Synth-diy at synth-diy.org'
Subject: Re: [sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project.. slowly
but surely ..

 

LEDs can also be a challenge to solder into panel PCBs as they might not be
at the correct height for poking through the panel.  The best way to install
LEDs is to first install all of the other components, then stuff the LED
leads into the PCB loosely, then actually attach the panel (with at least a
few nuts) and push the LEDs into their panel holes while the panel sits
upsidedown on the bench.  In this way, all the LEDs are at the correct
height.  I have also made LED jigs from scraps of PCB material (of which I
have many pounds!) that bridge two adjacent components.

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