[sdiy] Juno-106 replacement filters

[MTG]

I have a link somewhere to the board level repair info.  It seems the 
parts move around over time or some such thing.  I will look for it.  In 
the meantime:

"Re: random noise from MKS-30
Kiwitechnics

Back when I had a repair company I would have stripped over 200 of the 
80017a filter assemblies. I never once had any trouble with the acetone 
lifting pads.
My success rate was about 80% faults cured. The others were not fixed by 
the epoxy treatment and had to be replaced.
If the batch number printed on the 80017a starts with a 4 then the epoxy 
will fall off after one day soaking, if it starts with 5 it will need 
4-7 days soaking (with taking out, picking some off then putting it 
back) and if the number starts with 6 you will be at it for weeks and 
weeks to get the outer layer off and then you have a solid inner silicon 
layer which the acetone will not soften to battle with. If you have a 
faulty 6 type you might be better getting some AR clones which are 
better than the originals in my experience.
MH"




On 11/29/2017 11:22 AM, KRiSh wrote:
> I have a 106 with 1 VCA always "open".
> 
> I already replaced all sliders (19 sliders including the Bender ones) + 
> all 34 switch to it.
> 
> Feels like new now, only that voice is needing repair now.
> 
> I have rescued 4 voices from a friend's Juno that are supposed to be 
> working (he decided to change all of them with the AnalogReinassance ones).
> 
> My intention would be to remove the broken voice, then soak in acetone 
> the broken one and the working ones,
> then try to fix the broken one and if not successful then swap it with 
> one of the other working ones.
> 
> To do this easily, i'd like to find a 12 pin socket that does not 
> require the original terminals of the voice cards to be removed and 
> resoldered with other terminals compatible with common sockets found 
> around the web while looking for solutions on forums videos.
> 
> Those sockets have bigger holes than the originals on the board, thus 
> needing thicker terminals, but we all know removing and resoldering 
> terminals on those voices is potentially dangerous for the integrated 
> circuits aside (you don't want to heat them too much...).
> 
> Never found discussions about board level resoldering afterward nor 
> about death of the voices depending the date code actually:
> if you have links to them please share.
> 
> I always thought that the epoxy on the voice modules is causing 
> overheating and that is what causes the slow death of the rare 
> unobtaniums custom ICs underneath.
> 
> I'm still investigating on this, probably after restoring
>