[sdiy] TriggerIdiot

[blacet at blacet.com]

--Sounds like fun!

Only a comment on eyesight: I've had vari-focus for years and for assembly
work put a pair of cheap reading glasses (3X) on over them. Then there is
the stereo scope for the damn sub-SMT.


> Well, I hope the sale of Atmel does not mean much for Arduino..
>
> Here is my second Arduino-based machine: Trigger Idiot: A clock divider
> based gate trigger
> generator. Four rows with five rotary switches to set four clock pulse
> number per row that
> generate a gate signal per row. Knobs! LEDs! Switches! Buses!
>
> <http://dropmix.xs4all.nl/rick/Emusic/TriggerIdiot/>
>
> It is inspired by the Tiptop Audio Trigger Riot :
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjKLewx17iQ>, but far simpler.
>
> Current status is a finished front panel, but with the electronics still
> breadboard, and
> the software being work in progress.
>
> I have no idea if this is an "obligatory" and totally obvious device. I
> had fun designing
> and building it, though.
>
> Basically this is a device containing "midi" timing,
> internal/external/midi clock sources,
> and 20 rotary switches that can be read individually with an Arduino Uno,
> and a handful of
> I2C I/O expander PCF8574 chips.
>
> A version with rotary encoders is in the pipeline. I like 12-position
> rotary switches a
> lot though, because you can read their setting as is, the settings are
> solid, are kept at
> power-down, etc. But, the range is just 12 steps. Rotary encoders are a
> bit more fuzzy to
> use, the (cheap) encoders I used are pretty noisy, so not easy to use to
> set a very
> precise value in one go. That 120 BPM setting with a rotary encoder
> suffers from overshoot
> and undershoot, though it is not too bad here. (I'll experiment more with
> applying C's for
> hardware debouncing, later.)
>
> (This version used an Arduino Uno + I2C I/O expanders, the rotary encoder
> version will use
> an Arduino Mega only. It has enough I/O pins to not need I/O expansion.
> Actually, the
> PCF8574 chips are not expensive, but an Arduino Uno + 7 8574 costs a bit
> more than an
> Arduino Mega. Those Aduinos are lovely, and cheap!)
>
>
> There were a few surprises too, building this:
>
> 1. My eyesight has gone!
>
> I always enjoyed terriffic eyesight, both near and far, and was used to
> reading without
> glasses, and could read computer screens, cameras, iPhones etc even with
> glasses, although
> being a bit short sighted, until a few years ago.
> No longer.
> Yes, I must admit I have reached the Varifocus age too, fellow synth
> builders. And worse:
> soldering and miniature fiddling on a breadboard: TROUBLE! Even with
> regular reading glasses.
>
> I was contemplating getting one of those big magnifying glasses some
> people use for
> knitting and needlework. But, I realized that strong reading glasses have
> a magnifying
> effect too. So I went to the HEMA (general store here) and bought myself a
> pair of strong
> reading glasse, strength +3. THAT WORKS FINE! Mind, it gives you a focus
> depth of not more
> than 20-30 cm, where things are sharp. The rest of the world is pretty
> blurry. So if you
> need that pair of pliers that is at the other end of your desk you need
> another pair of
> glasses. But for finnicky handiwork like this, a pair of +3 glasses is a
> relief! Glad I
> thought of that.
>
> I am reminded of my old chemistry teacher, who was my age back then, and
> whom I pitied for
> having three pairs of glasses on his desk. So here I am. Pity me!
> (damn!)
>
>
> 2a. The front panel
>
> is a standard piece of 3 mm anodized aluminium for 19" rack, bought at
> Conrad. I no longer
> have an aluminium center nearby, so I thought to just order this. It's
> fine! A nice solid,
> thick piece of front panel. But, those standard 3.5 mm bus connectors have
> too short a
> thread to be fitted in a panel like this. It's simply too thick! Or the
> buses too short,
> whatever. I could just put the nut on the connector, but only just. What
> happens then is
> that if you stick a plug into the connector, you cannot insert it deep
> enough, and no
> proper connection is made. So I had to remove the nuts. The connector is
> now in place with
> just 2-component glue. (sorry)
>
>
> 2b. The front panel - MIRRORED PRINTING!
>
> I did a design for the front panel, with spots where I needed to punch a
> dent for drilling
> holes. Rotary switches and rotary encoders have a second pin to make sure
> they are secured
> to a front panel. That need a second hole, but not a through hole. I
> happily was punching
> away until I realized that the second hole only needs to be present at the
> backside. And I
> was punching dents in the front. Sorry. Next time I'll PRINT THE FRONT
> PANEL MIRRORED. It
> will also prevent scratches like the one I made when the drill decided to
> not stay where I
> wanted it to be. Well, that is what prototypes are for.
>
>
> 3. Gate length
>
> There is a rotary for BPM (0-255), and a second rotary for gate length
> (0-100). I was
> thinking along the lines of gate lengths that are 25-50% of the note
> length. However, with
> a rhythm-type device like this the gate lengths are pretty short. Just a
> few pulses of the
> midi clock.  Hm. Well, maybe it'll come in handy later for something else.
>
> Anyway: <http://dropmix.xs4all.nl/rick/Emusic/TriggerIdiot/>
>
> rick
>
>
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