[sdiy] breadboard, was: Minimum spacing between 1/4" jacks on DOTCOM modules..
Paul Perry
pfperry at melbpc.org.au
Sun May 19 12:46:39 CEST 2013
Yeah, it's really stripboard (the generic version of the original Vero.)
My secret weapon is a wire brush - after soldering I scrub the soldered side
with a stiff wire brush to remove any shorts.
As for those Penfold and PE projects, I don't know how many DIY careers were
blighted by the errors in each project!
I always use a drill bit (the kind for pop rivets is ideal) in a handle to
cut the trace. Works better than the expensive special tool.
On the other hand, all the professionals I know use the "pad per hole"
stuff. You can build higher density, but I personally can't keep track of
anything when I use that. I am a bear of little brain.
paul perry MelbourneAustralia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Kalomiris" <tokalo at videotron.ca>
To: "Paul Perry" <pfperry at melbpc.org.au>
Cc: "synthdiy diy" <synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2013 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: [sdiy] breadboard, was: Minimum spacing between 1/4" jacks on
DOTCOM modules..
> Paul is that the Vero board where you cut tracks with the Vero tool, or
> pad per hole and you use the component leads for connections ? I loved
> building from the UK mags like Practical Electronics, they always had a
> diagram for Vero construction showing you where to cut and put jumpers.
> (Anyone remember those A.R. Bradford (sp) DIY projects like the
> "Percussion Microsynth?" Ah those were the days...and of course E&MM too.)
>
> There was a Canadian product called 'END" (Electronic Network Designer)
> that was a combination breadboard and prototyping card....you flip it over
> when done and solder the breadboard jumpers...and you're done (the cover
> had a foam to hold the parts in place...but only good for low profile
> designs or less you end up with parts falling out...Good idea but costly
> and the final board warped when fully populated.
>
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