[sdiy] PCB etching re-revisited
Ben Barwise
clackjunk at gmail.com
Mon Nov 7 00:07:40 CET 2011
Hello,
The matt side is a blue powder that is coated onto a sheet of plastic,
yes that is what you print on.
I never bother to warm the ferric Chloride, there is not a lof of
copper to come off a PCB so it is not worth it.
There are a few that already successfully etch Aluminium in FC, check
out the pictures thread at DIYstompboxes forum there are plenty of
them to see there!
I am currently doing some tests with electro etching aluminum as
etching solid metal wastes the ferric chloride much quicker (you need
to etch deeper) All you need is a current source (bench PSU) and some
kind of solution (um i have tested with salt water)
On 6 November 2011 22:32, aankrom <aankrom at bluemarble.net> wrote:
> OK. Lots of good tips. Now all I need to know is ideal bath temp for FeCl3
> etching bath & how long to expect a typical etching to take. Is it better to
> etch a large board or a small board? Oh and you print on the dull side for
> PnP Blue? Now it feels like I had anothr question...
>
> Does FeCl3 work for etching Al sheet & die cast Al? Also brass? This is how
> I want to make the control surface markings for my projects. I wondered if a
> very very dilute solution of HgCl2 might work for aluminum or if the Al
> would all just eventually crumble from oxidation.
>
> Anthony
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