[sdiy] US Industrial Silk Screener Recommendations, label printing

[karl dalen]

I did some years ago, remember for basic plastic sticker, the type
you put on your back of your car saying some thing obese to the
driver behind, Beware, babies onboard! kind of sticker Size of
10x 10cm in 100units cost was then roughly about 15 euro.

What i found out then was that its just a matter of turning to the right
supplier, never go to sign makers, they have entirely different pricing
map (expensive) since they have a different customer base, small scale
companies who just needs a sign atop the factory building.

As you say,adhesive label/sticker firms.

http://www.labellab.com/LAB/aluminum_metal_labels.asp

Reg
KD

--- Den fre 2010-06-11 skrev Barry Klein <Barry.L.Klein at wdc.com>:

> Från: Barry Klein <Barry.L.Klein at wdc.com>
> Ämne: Re: [sdiy] US Industrial Silk Screener Recommendations
> Till: synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl
> Datum: fredag 11 juni 2010 20:44
> Anyone yet go to a label maker firm
> and ask for pricing on small volume
> adhesive backed plastic or aluminum backed labels? 
> Seems like a nice
> clean quick way to do this sort of thing.
> 
> Barry
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: synth-diy-bounces at dropmix.xs4all.nl
> [mailto:synth-diy-bounces at dropmix.xs4all.nl]
> On Behalf Of Tony Rolando
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 8:37 AM
> To: David G. Dixon
> Cc: synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl
> Subject: Re: [sdiy] US Industrial Silk Screener
> Recommendations
> 
> David G. Dixon wrote:
> >> I've used the Toner Transfer method to make some
> very nice DIY
> >> faceplates. I follow the same steps as one would
> for making PCB, except
> >> that I transfer to the aluminum and then do not
> etch, instead I spray a
> >> couple coats of lacquer over the printing. The
> results are sharp (if
> >> your laser printer is nice) and have last many
> years (some of my panels
> >> are over 5 yrs old and still look great).
> >>
> >> With the aluminum it helps to hit it with a very
> fine sand paper to
> >> remove oxidization before the toner transfer.
> >>     
> >
> > Tony, are you using PnP Blue, or photo paper, or
> DecalPro dextrin-coated
> > paper, or what?  Did you have to practice to get
> transferred graphics of
> > uniform thickness?
> >
> >
> >   
> 
> I've used all of the above, and I found that the inkjet
> photo paper 
> worked best. You use a laser printer, but put the inkjet
> glossy photo 
> paper through, and the toner from the laser printer does
> not bond too 
> well to the glossy inkjet paper. I found that you must do
> all steps 
> immediately, so have the aluminum prepped before you print
> the graphic. 
> While the graphic was printing I would usually warm-up the
> aluminum with 
> a clothing iron set to the highest temp, and NO steam. Make
> sure there 
> is no water in the iron. When the graphic was printed, I'd
> cut it to 
> size, and then very carefully lay it on top of the
> faceplate (which was 
> cut to size as well). Since the faceplate is already
> warmed, it is 
> important to get the paper on right the first time. It is
> tricky, and 
> perhaps you could have the metal cold, but I thought I was
> getting 
> better results by pre-heating the metal. The good thing
> about 
> pre-heating is that once the paper is down, it sticks in
> place, and the 
> graphic is less likely to smudge while you "iron-on" the
> toner. Once 
> you've ironed the paper to the metal for a while, you drop
> the metal, 
> with paper sticking to it, into a warm, soapy water bath,
> and let the 
> paper peel away. You can help it, but be careful because
> you can also 
> damage the printing if you try to peel it off too fast.
> After you get 
> the paper off, you'll want to lightly sand the entire
> faceplate to clean 
> up the graphic, where bits of the paper might still be
> sticking. Once it 
> dries, I'd hit it with 3 coats of automotive grade lacquer
> and then, 
> finally, enjoy. It is a lot of work! Another thing I have
> done for 
> single or short run faceplates is to etch copper clad, just
> like toner 
> transfer. FR4 is pretty durable for faceplate.
> 
> T
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