[sdiy] US Industrial Silk Screener Recommendations

[Dave Leith]

Yup, that's what I do. They laser engrave the thin aluminum panels.
Bit expensive but I try to not make mistakes and do only once

<http://minimalist.davidleith.com/DeitzModSynth6.html>

On 6/11/10, Barry Klein <Barry.L.Klein at wdc.com> wrote:
> Anyone yet go to a label maker firm and ask for pricing on small volume
>  adhesive backed plastic or aluminum backed labels?  Seems like a nice
>  clean quick way to do this sort of thing.
>
>
>  Barry
>
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: synth-diy-bounces at dropmix.xs4all.nl
>  [mailto:synth-diy-bounces at dropmix.xs4all.nl] On Behalf Of Tony Rolando
>  Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 8:37 AM
>  To: David G. Dixon
>  Cc: synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl
>  Subject: Re: [sdiy] US Industrial Silk Screener Recommendations
>
>  David G. Dixon wrote:
>  >> I've used the Toner Transfer method to make some very nice DIY
>  >> faceplates. I follow the same steps as one would for making PCB, except
>  >> that I transfer to the aluminum and then do not etch, instead I spray a
>  >> couple coats of lacquer over the printing. The results are sharp (if
>  >> your laser printer is nice) and have last many years (some of my panels
>  >> are over 5 yrs old and still look great).
>  >>
>  >> With the aluminum it helps to hit it with a very fine sand paper to
>  >> remove oxidization before the toner transfer.
>  >>
>  >
>  > Tony, are you using PnP Blue, or photo paper, or DecalPro dextrin-coated
>  > paper, or what?  Did you have to practice to get transferred graphics of
>  > uniform thickness?
>  >
>  >
>  >
>
>  I've used all of the above, and I found that the inkjet photo paper
>  worked best. You use a laser printer, but put the inkjet glossy photo
>  paper through, and the toner from the laser printer does not bond too
>  well to the glossy inkjet paper. I found that you must do all steps
>  immediately, so have the aluminum prepped before you print the graphic.
>  While the graphic was printing I would usually warm-up the aluminum with
>  a clothing iron set to the highest temp, and NO steam. Make sure there
>  is no water in the iron. When the graphic was printed, I'd cut it to
>  size, and then very carefully lay it on top of the faceplate (which was
>  cut to size as well). Since the faceplate is already warmed, it is
>  important to get the paper on right the first time. It is tricky, and
>  perhaps you could have the metal cold, but I thought I was getting
>  better results by pre-heating the metal. The good thing about
>  pre-heating is that once the paper is down, it sticks in place, and the
>  graphic is less likely to smudge while you "iron-on" the toner. Once
>  you've ironed the paper to the metal for a while, you drop the metal,
>  with paper sticking to it, into a warm, soapy water bath, and let the
>  paper peel away. You can help it, but be careful because you can also
>  damage the printing if you try to peel it off too fast. After you get
>  the paper off, you'll want to lightly sand the entire faceplate to clean
>  up the graphic, where bits of the paper might still be sticking. Once it
>  dries, I'd hit it with 3 coats of automotive grade lacquer and then,
>  finally, enjoy. It is a lot of work! Another thing I have done for
>  single or short run faceplates is to etch copper clad, just like toner
>  transfer. FR4 is pretty durable for faceplate.
>
>  T
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