[sdiy] Onboard regulation vs. re-design

[karl dalen]

If you only need +/-100ma each board with a Lm317 and a LM337 are neat solution, you could always adjust the voltage afterwards if you later discover you need a different voltage and the additional cost are minor.

The diode filter works from +/-5 or even lower and beyond +/-15 (one
diode drop, diode array are horizontal)but will saturate very fast due
to the K/S topology and its positive feedback and it dosent sound nice
when it does!

KD

--- Den tors 2010-07-01 skrev David Ingebretsen <dingebre at 3dphysics.net>:

> Från: David Ingebretsen <dingebre at 3dphysics.net>
> Ämne: [sdiy] Onboard regulation vs. re-design
> Till: "'Synth DIY'" <synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
> Datum: torsdag 1 juli 2010 06:19
> I have a design (maybe redesign)
> philosophy question. Again, this relates to
> the Steiner modules I'm trying to build.
> 
> Nyle used +12/-10 volts for his supplies for reasons I
> never did, nor do I
> now understand. When this was a "one-off" project for me
> alone, it didn't
> matter. I found a commercial supply which is easily
> converted to +12/-10
> volts and I was going to use power connectors consistent
> with MOTM/Blacet
> style power distribution. 
> 
> That all changed when Nyle said he wanted to see people
> have fun with his
> designs and that I should share the work I'm doing. The
> dilemma is there are
> several people interested in building these modules and I'm
> sure they will
> be wanting to put them into +/- 12 and +/- 15 volt systems.
> From some off
> list correspondence I've had, I'm pretty sure they will
> simply run on +/- 12
> volts with no changes. I'm not so sure about +/- 15,
> especially the diode
> filter. I figure I have a few choices and I'd like to poll
> the opinion of
> the list as to the "best" way to approach this;
> 
> One of my goals is to make this resurrection true to the
> original. I do not
> want to re-design the circuit; the bias resistors and other
> circuit
> components. I want to keep these running on +12 and -10.
> 
> 1. Thumb my nose at everyone and tell them they have to
> work out the power
> conversion on their own. Rude, inconsiderate, and clearly a
> solution I will
> not choose, but have to consider as it is a real solution.
> 
> 2. Try the modules at +/- 12 and +/- 15 and see what
> happens. If it works, I
> guess the rest of the choices are moot. Except, I am
> obsessive/anal enough
> that I really want these modules to bring to life the
> timbre and texture of
> the original design and want them to operate as the real
> ones did.
> 
> 3. Build a single "conversion" board with +12 and -10 volt
> regulators. 
>     3a. I could make it a "plug and play" type
> design that could either be
> wired to take +/- 15 or +/- 12 and turn it 
>         into +12 and -10. This would be
> a small PCB that has a 4 pin MOTM
> and 10 pin Doepfer type male connectors and one 4 or 10 
>         pin female connector. You'd
> need one for each module. This actually
> has some appeal and I'm leaning here.
>     3b. a bigger conversion board designed to run
> several modules. I would
> follow the mounting pattern John Blacet uses so it 
>         could easily be used in his
> racks or adapted to other mounting
> schemes.
> 
> 4. Build the conversion on each board and just plan on at
> least a -12 volt
> supply with an optional 12 volt regulator for 15 volt
> systems.
> 
> I'm pretty sure most people building these won't want to
> deal with having to
> modify these PCBs to use them, but I also don't want to try
> to make these
> PCBs I'm laying out work for everyone in every system.
> 
> I'm really appreciative of any thoughts here.
> 
> David
> 
> David M. Ingebretsen M.S., M.E.
> Collision Forensics & Engineering, Inc.
> 2469 East Fort Union Blvd. STE 114
> Salt Lake City, UT 84121
> www.CFandE.com
> 
> 801 733-5458 Office
> 801 842-5451 Cell
> 
> dingebre at CFandE.com
> dingebre at 3dphysics.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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