[sdiy] Onboard regulation vs. re-design

[JH.]

Put a +12V and -10V regulator on each board.
This means more components than one central regulator couple, but it's 
likely that you get away without heat sinks that way, so it will probably be 
the more economic solution as well, iven if it looks the contrary at first 
glance.
Protect inputs and outputs(!) with cheap 1N4002 Diodes to the local supply 
voltage.

JH.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Ingebretsen" <dingebre at 3dphysics.net>
To: "'Synth DIY'" <synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 3:49 AM
Subject: [sdiy] Onboard regulation vs. re-design


>I have a design (maybe redesign) philosophy question. Again, this relates 
>to
> the Steiner modules I'm trying to build.
>
> Nyle used +12/-10 volts for his supplies for reasons I never did, nor do I
> now understand. When this was a "one-off" project for me alone, it didn't
> matter. I found a commercial supply which is easily converted to +12/-10
> volts and I was going to use power connectors consistent with MOTM/Blacet
> style power distribution.
>
> That all changed when Nyle said he wanted to see people have fun with his
> designs and that I should share the work I'm doing. The dilemma is there 
> are
> several people interested in building these modules and I'm sure they will
> be wanting to put them into +/- 12 and +/- 15 volt systems. From some off
> list correspondence I've had, I'm pretty sure they will simply run on +/- 
> 12
> volts with no changes. I'm not so sure about +/- 15, especially the diode
> filter. I figure I have a few choices and I'd like to poll the opinion of
> the list as to the "best" way to approach this;
>
> One of my goals is to make this resurrection true to the original. I do 
> not
> want to re-design the circuit; the bias resistors and other circuit
> components. I want to keep these running on +12 and -10.
>
> 1. Thumb my nose at everyone and tell them they have to work out the power
> conversion on their own. Rude, inconsiderate, and clearly a solution I 
> will
> not choose, but have to consider as it is a real solution.
>
> 2. Try the modules at +/- 12 and +/- 15 and see what happens. If it works, 
> I
> guess the rest of the choices are moot. Except, I am obsessive/anal enough
> that I really want these modules to bring to life the timbre and texture 
> of
> the original design and want them to operate as the real ones did.
>
> 3. Build a single "conversion" board with +12 and -10 volt regulators.
>    3a. I could make it a "plug and play" type design that could either be
> wired to take +/- 15 or +/- 12 and turn it
>        into +12 and -10. This would be a small PCB that has a 4 pin MOTM
> and 10 pin Doepfer type male connectors and one 4 or 10
>        pin female connector. You'd need one for each module. This actually
> has some appeal and I'm leaning here.
>    3b. a bigger conversion board designed to run several modules. I would
> follow the mounting pattern John Blacet uses so it
>        could easily be used in his racks or adapted to other mounting
> schemes.
>
> 4. Build the conversion on each board and just plan on at least a -12 volt
> supply with an optional 12 volt regulator for 15 volt systems.
>
> I'm pretty sure most people building these won't want to deal with having 
> to
> modify these PCBs to use them, but I also don't want to try to make these
> PCBs I'm laying out work for everyone in every system.
>
> I'm really appreciative of any thoughts here.
>
> David
>
> David M. Ingebretsen M.S., M.E.
> Collision Forensics & Engineering, Inc.
> 2469 East Fort Union Blvd. STE 114
> Salt Lake City, UT 84121
> www.CFandE.com
>
> 801 733-5458 Office
> 801 842-5451 Cell
>
> dingebre at CFandE.com
> dingebre at 3dphysics.net
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Synth-diy mailing list
> Synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl
> http://dropmix.xs4all.nl/mailman/listinfo/synth-diy
>
>