SV: [sdiy] Solder won't stick to old PCB

Harry Bissell harrybissell at wowway.com
Mon Sep 28 03:26:06 CEST 2009


I don't worry about it. How about the oxides from a leaking (leaked)
NiCd battery. Nothing short of scraping will remove the contaminated
layer.

Anyway... no NEED to attack the boards of the beloved unless they
are already bad. Synths do not respond well to techs who fear them. :^)

The only downside of mechanical is that its tedious... especially for a populated
PCB

H^) harry


----- Original Message -----
From: Graham Atkins <gatkins at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: Harry Bissell <harrybissell at wowway.com>
Cc: thx1138 <thx1138 at earthlink.net>, Ingo Debus <igg.debus at t-online.de>, John Alex Hvidlykke <john at hvidlykke.dk>, Synth DIY <Synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
Sent: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 20:57:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: SV: [sdiy] Solder won't stick to old PCB

This might be OK for old stock unpopulated PCB's but it's a bit  
aggressive
to start attacking the boards of your beloved OB-X, Jupiter 8.....

Graham

On 28 Sep 2009, at 01:18, Harry Bissell wrote:

> I like mechanical removal - scrape with X-acto knife or buff up with
> scotchbrite pads (or steel wool, or emery cloth (sandpaper).
>
> If they are commercial boards, they may have been wave soldered with
> an alloy containing way too much tin. (Lead is normally depleted
> first and needs to be replaced in the wave solder).
>
> I had some boards that could not be desoldered, not even with a torch.
> The fiberglass substrate burned... :^)
>
> H^) harry
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: thx1138 <thx1138 at earthlink.net>
> To: Ingo Debus <igg.debus at t-online.de>, Graham Atkins <gatkins at blueyonder.co.uk 
> >
> Cc: John Alex Hvidlykke <john at hvidlykke.dk>, Synth DIY <Synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl 
> >
> Sent: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 16:33:52 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: SV: [sdiy] Solder won't stick to old PCB
>
> On 9/27/09 1:03 PM, "Ingo Debus" <igg.debus at t-online.de> wrote:
>
>>
>> Am 27.09.2009 um 21:03 schrieb Graham Atkins:
>>
>>> Before now with badly corroded joints I've used a mildly abrasive
>>> paste like
>>> T Cut (For car paintwork) applied on a cotton bud, but clean well
>>> afterwards.
>>
>> Interesting idea, I never tried that.
>>
>> You can also try a glass fibre pencil brush (or whatever it's  
>> called).
>>
>> Ingo
>> _______________________________________________
>> Synth-diy mailing list
>> Synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl
>> http://dropmix.xs4all.nl/mailman/listinfo/synth-diy
> Hi Folks,
>
> Sometimes a pink eraser on a pencil will work and is not too abrasive.
>
> Regards,
>
> Terry
>
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>
> -- 
> Harry Bissell & Nora Abdullah 4eva
>



-- 
Harry Bissell & Nora Abdullah 4eva



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