[sdiy] Arp Odyssey sliders cleaning/ restoration

[Karl Ekdahl]

So

I was wondering if there's any less intricate way of doing this, i mean what if you were just to spray some deoxit in them and grease them? Would that just make for future clogging? How about just washing the sliders with simplegreen instead of the whole boards?

Karl

--- Den tors 2009-04-30 skrev jeff brown <guitaricon at verizon.net>:

> Från: jeff brown <guitaricon at verizon.net>
> Ämne: Re: [sdiy] Arp Odyssey sliders cleaning/ restoration
> Till: synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl
> Datum: torsdag 30 april 2009 23.24
> 
> This was covered several years ago on this list by Kevin
> Lightner. Rather than being a weenie and telling you to
> search the archive for it, I'll insert it here ;^P
> 
> ---------------------------- Quote from May 24, 2004 (I
> think) -------------------------------
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> Hope this doesn't come off sounding too self-absorbed, but
> it's not
> easy to note what *I* do without using the *I* word
> often.... ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> I do wash boards, though I've a few precautions and
> practices well down.
> For me, I use high pressure softened water and usually a
> good grease
> cutting detergent.
> I prefer SimpleGreen for this as it's biodegradeable and
> easily available.
> Also De-SolvIt is great, but is oily and it itself must be
> removed
> with simplegreen as well.
> I don't allow things to soak too long, but 3-5 minutes
> immersion is
> usually needed to dislodge old grease.
> After a rinse, the boards are blown using compressed air
> and placed
> in a forced air dryer.
> A hair dryer (not too hot) will substitute fine. Allow them
> to sit
> overnight before powering up.
> 
> Boards are often washed when originally made and soldering,
> both by
> hand or machine, exposes a board to higher temperatures
> than any
> water you'll handle, even boiling. The main thing is that
> water is
> not left to dry and leave mineral deposits or react with
> metals to
> oxidize (rust, aluminum oxide, lead oxide, etc). The only
> components
> that have ever acted up, and rarely at that, are the larger
> foil
> wound caps found in CV memory circuits such as key memory
> and sample
> and holds. I replace them if so, but out of about 30-50
> Odys that
> have received this treatment, only 2 needed components
> replaced.
> Those odds are well within my confidence range considering
> the
> positive results otherwise.
> 
> One plus about this technique is that it removes coatings
> on the pcb
> that can degrade audio and CV's.
> It's quite common to have things more stable and of better
> fidelity
> after a total cleaning.
> Sample and hold circuits can droop simply from body oils on
> a board.
> Imagine what 28 years of atmospheric junk can do when
> accumulated.
> 
> After washing, most sliders feel much better, but keep in
> mind that
> immediately afterwards they are still wet inside and will
> still feel
> lubricated. After drying, they will need new lube. I use
> GC
> Electronics Luberex and apply it through a hypodermic
> syringe. It
> helps to remove and disasemble one slider so as to give you
> an idea
> what points require lube the most. Lube on the resistive
> element
> generally won't hurt it or affect its operation, so you
> don't have to
> be ultra careful. I will also use a drop or two of TriFlow
> Teflon
> lube if they need to be a bit less frictional. It's all on
> a "as
> needed" basis, so I'm hesitant to provide any blanket rules
> or offer
> this as the bible of slider repairs. This is what has
> worked for me
> and is proven over time.
> 
> The sliders are not terribly easy to remove nor to replace
> the shafts.
> You must remove the entire slider in order to swap the
> shafts also.
> I really don't know how to detail what's involved if you've
> never
> done the operation before.
> Like teaching guitar via email: I could take apart 20
> sliders in the
> time it took to write this email, but it took years of
> doing and with
> many failures that taught valuable lessons. I would
> recommend some
> smooth jawed flat pliers and whatever you feel comfortable
> with for
> desoldering. If I didn't use power desolderers, my next
> choice would
> be solderwick. The little bulb or piston solder suckers
> just don't
> cut it for me. More pain than they're worth.
> 
> When I use or offer sliders for sale, they are made up of
> selected
> parts from several sliders.
> Often the tops are hand polished to get them smooth again
> and remove
> scratches.
> The inside wiper plate and contacts are polished using
> swabs and chrome
> polish.
> They're solvent cleaned and relubed, then assembled,
> checked for
> proper tension and then bench tested using an audio
> generator and
> scope. Lots of work for sure. The payoff for me (besides
> the money)
> is getting an Arp to feel almost brand new. Many people
> have no idea
> how nice they can usually turn out.
> They've never played a new one.
> 
> Also, I very much recommend on any gear, a very close
> inspection
> under bright light.
> Solder connections, especially on larger pins and
> connections, or
> leads of items that are subject to physical force are the
> most common
> places. Pins that carry high current or experience higher
> temperatures are subject to premature cracking as well.
> I do this operation to *every* board of *every* unit that
> comes in
> here. No exceptions.
> It's that important. The pcb is the most important
> component and
> makes the most connections.
> So many repairs I and other techs do everyday is nothing
> more than
> resoldering cracked pcb connections.
> On some units, I won't even power them up until this is
> done. For
> example, the display board of the Roland S-50 is sooo often
> filled
> with cracked connections, it's assumed that's needed
> everytime. After
> a while, one gets savvy where to look and what to touch up.
> My secret
> weapon to not seeing any rework ;-)
> 
> Hope this helps!
> 
> -- Regards,
> Kevin Lightner
> 
> http://www.synthfool.com
> 
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