[sdiy] Fine pitch etching (was: For breadboard lovers...)

[David G. Dixon]

> Speaking of fine pitch etching has anyone had good success with :
> 
> http://www.pulsarprofx.com/pcbfx/main_site/pages/start_here/index.html
> 
> 
> His system seems to be well thought out (if not a bit expensive)
> however his results are excellent.  My only concern is his web site is a
> little over the top and comes off as an infomercial.
> 
> I am strongly considering moving to this system once I get a bit deeper
> into DIY-PCBs.

Andy, I use the Pulsar ProFX system for front panel decals (laserjet the
"wire mode" FPD image (with a thick border just outside the boundaries of
the panel) onto the dextrin paper, laminate on some black metallic foil,
laminate this onto the mylar carrier sheet, soak and separate, spray the
special glue, and rub on).

I have found the results to be a little bit variable, mostly because a)
sometimes little bits of the original image get removed from the dextrin
paper by the black metallic sheet, and b) one has to be VERY careful with
the whole spray glue episode -- I've lost many a transfer at the very last
step because either the mylar sheet got a corner blown over onto itself
while spraying the glue (which utterly destroys the decal), or (and this is
a danger with larger decals) I simply was too much of a klutz trying to pick
up the decal, turn it over, line it up and stick it down (all while trying
not to touch any of the graphics or let the mylar fold over on itself or let
the graphics touch the panel before I was good and ready).  I also find that
there is a little bit of spray glue residue left on the panel when I'm done,
although this seems to dissolve into the Varathane coating I apply, so no
worries.

Everytime I do one of those panels, I have to remember to start breathing
again when I'm finished!  Sometimes the results are perfect, sometimes not.
I'm probably going to switch to Lazertran wet decals when I run out of
Pulsar supplies.

However, having said all that, I do believe that the pcb transfer method
should be totally idiotproof.  That's because you are laminating directly
onto the pcb material -- there is no handling of flimsy decals covered with
glue!

I am contemplating switching over to this method from the PnP blue transfer
method, simply because I already have all the gear, and the PnP stuff is
pretty variable unless you've got a shirt press (which I don't).  What I
don't have are the 1/32" half-ounce pcb boards, although probably the 1/16"
one-ounce boards would probably work fine.  I guess it wouldn't be too hard
to find out.