[sdiy] tips for wooden frames/cases (monome clone)
Dave Manley
dlmanley at sonic.net
Wed Jul 8 05:58:14 CEST 2009
Danjel van Tijn wrote:
> So I am about build the wooden case for my arduinome 128 clone. I am
> going to get it made by a pro woodshop and need to make them the cad
> files.
>
> I had a few questions:
>
> 1. The real monomes seem to have mitered corners. How were these made
> so they are strong? wooden dowels inside? bracket inside enclosure.
>
> 2. Should I use fingerboard or dovetail joints instead? If so should I
> draw these in the cad program or can I just specify this to the wood
> shop?
>
> 3. Should I have the woodshop cut the recess for the panels with a CNC
> machine after assembling the frame or should it be designed into the
> parts before?
>
> My plan is to have the wood frame and then metal plates on the top and
> bottom screwed into it (I have already made these).
>
>
The recess for the panels should be cut before hand as part of the
pieces. This would typically
be done on a piece of equipment known as a "joiner". You could also do
it, less exactly, with
a router.
The mitered corners could be strengthened using "biscuits". These are
small, thin, oval pieces
of wood, that can be inserted in the miter joint to join the pieces
before gluing. An alternative
would be to use a triangular wedge of wood inside of each corner. You
could dovetail, but
then I don't think you want to round the corners as shown in your picture.
Look also at the "locked miter joint":
http://www.dixieline.com/woodjoint/woodjoints.htm
You might want to look at the locked rabbet joint also.
Lots of options here:
http://www.sawdustmaking.com/About%20Joints/about_joints.htm
If you are working with a woodshop, just ask them for suggestions.
They'll surely have
an opinion!
-Dave
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