[sdiy] Hammond on ebay, broken

[mike ruberto]

Unfortunately, I cannot directly oil the workings because the the
generator is mounted. It is mounted with it's top screwed to the
underside of a wooden shelf. There are two cutouts in the shelf to
reach the oiling cups. It is a massive job to remove the generator
from the organ too considering all the wires to it are soldered to
terminals. Once I have enough free time available I'll take the
generator out to get a better idea of what I need to do.

Thanks for all the advice.

Mike

On Nov 17, 2007 7:55 AM, Magnus Danielson <magnus at rubidium.dyndns.org> wrote:
> From: "Roy J. Tellason" <rtellason at verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: [sdiy] Hammond on ebay, broken
> Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 21:09:28 -0500
> Message-ID: <200711162109.28285.rtellason at verizon.net>
>
> > On Friday 16 November 2007 20:10, mike ruberto wrote:
> > > Now my tone generator is starting to seize up. I suspect the oil
> > > capillaries have gotten gummed up. I have been putting this off for
> > > some time because it is a filthy oily mess in there.
> >
> > I did a service call one time on a unit that was like that -- you'd turn it on
> > and the generator wouldn't spin up at all.  It'd been sitting for a really
> > long period of time,  I think something like seven years?
> >
> > Anyhow,  what happenes there is that the old oil has lighter fractions that
> > evaporate,  while the heavier stuff stays behind.
> >
> > What I ended up doing was adding some fresh oil,  and then turning it over by
> > hand,  over a period of time,  until it would start when the switch was
> > turned on.  Then I told the customer to leave it on and run for a while,
> > which allowed the new oil to get to where it needed to be...
>
> Indeed. What you should have done was to remove the old oil. That is however a
> more elaborate process, so adding new and rubbing it in will do for now. If you
> think of what that process does in the long run, a propper clean out every now
> and then seems like a good idea. Solving the old oil out with isopropanol and
> let it dry out and then add fresh oil. Isopropanol dries out quickly on flat
> surfaces, but it take some time in the mechanics, so a propper dryout is
> needed. You want the isoprop gone before you add new oil since it will slip out
> too quickly if the isoprop is still there. You want to be carefull with the
> gears in the unoiled condition.
>
> If you go for not cleaning out the old oil like above, you would have to add
> new oil in several runs and let it work in on the old oil. Each turn you would
> reduce the amount of old thick oil but it is not a very efficient process.
>
> Cheers,
> Magnus
>
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