[sdiy] My homebuilt Keyboard - update
Edward King
edwardcking2001 at yahoo.co.uk
Tue Mar 6 12:12:03 CET 2007
Steve,
you're right, maplin no longer sell them. I bought one when they were in
stock years ago, played with it for a few days and binned it. To say it was
"substandard" would be putting it mildly. It was probably the worst keyboard
Id laid hands on.
Im not sure what you want to do.....do you want to build the actual keyboard
mechanism part or the whole synthesizer?
Options:
A) buy a keyboard mechanism from Fatar (Not the studiologic range because
they are fully-assembled midi master keyboards) who sell 49, 61, 76 and 88
key mechanisms with and without hammer action. Conversion to your local
currency puts this at about 400 quid for an 88 key hammer action job I
believe (check this because my local currency isnt uk pounds).
These really are very good. Although I was tempted to buy one of these
initially (thereby saving me years of research and oodles of man-hours in
experimentation), personal preference dictates; I just dont like the
contacts on these things and I dont like an all-plastic solution. Now they
have some solutions with partly wooden keys, but this is so embedded that
you wouldnt know.
B) buy a midi controller keyboard and disassemble it (remove the case) to
put it into your own synth design. this is probably the cheapest option. You
can pick up a cheap midi controller keyboard from ebay for next to nothing.
Buying a midi controller keyboard, dismantling it and sticking it into your
own case with synthesizer electronics may seem like a waste, but it does
offer several advantages...
1) If you really want to, you can add sensing mechanism to the existing
structure, such as optical slotted switches to give you displacement
(position) of the keys. This has been done often enough now by various
people (including myself and some guys from this list) that you wont be
short of assistance if you need it. There are lots of other methods of
achieveing this too.
the benefit of this is that in addition to offering MIDI code output from
the controller keyboard for compliance with external kit, you also then have
the option of a much more expressive sensing mechanism. I believe that most
people use 8, 10 or 12 bit sensing mechanisms, but I personally found it
most cost effective to use banks of multichannel 24 bit Analogue to Digital
converters.
2) Adding aftertouch (since most cheaper MIDI controller keyboards dont
offer this) can be as simple as laying some QTC cable at a strategic point
under the key mechanisms for a keyboard-wide aftertouch OR placing
individual pressure sensing devices under each key for individual aftertouch
(personally, I favour the latter).
3) MIDI controller keyboards tend to be quite compact and light and through
personal experience, I have found them to be very easy to integrate with
existing designs. Removing extraneous circuitry and unwanted functionality
is also pretty easy. Of course, leaving it in is easiest of all....
C) Build your own keyboard from scratch.
Let me tell you, this is probably the most difficult and most time
consuming; but the most rewarding if you get good results.
It can be as simple as giving a set of key dimensions to a local wood
workshop and getting them to make them for you or butchering an existing
piano (gulp) or keyboard and re-engineering the key mechanisms to suit your
needs.
Or you can make your own keys out of plastic or composites (fibreglass or
carbon fibre). The cost - based on my own experience - ranges from the
equivalent of 150 pounds for a basic 88 key keyboard with wooden keys and
plastic ivory effect keytops to round about 500 pounds for a hammer-action
88 key keyboard with wooden keys, ivory effect keytops, displacement
sensing, hammer sensing and individual aftertouch. Cost is subjective
though; if you use cheaper parts you can do this for less than half the
cost.
If you're wondering about these different sensing mechanisms, there are lots
of schools of thought on the usefulness and accuracy of them all.
My personal position is that I dont feel MIDI offers the flexibility or
bandwidth conducive to offering realistic expression in the arena of
evermore complex sounds and arrangements. It is a great universal
connectivity fabric though and support for it shouldnt be discarded. There
is absolutely nothing wrong in catering for both camps to get the best of
both worlds; just a little more complicated and a little more thought into
the design.
EK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Moorby" <steve.moorby at ntlworld.com>
To: "Edward King" <edwardcking2001 at yahoo.co.uk>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: [sdiy] My homebuilt Keyboard - update
> Hi,
> I'd like to build a synth / keyboard. Where can I buy a keyboard from
> in the UK. In the old days Maplin stocked them but now they've gone
> like Tandy.
>
> Thanks
> Steve
>
> On Mon, 2007-03-05 at 01:11 +0200, Edward King wrote:
>> Richard,
>>
>> over the weekend, Ive reworked some areas of the keyboard. The weight is
>> now
>> 64% of what it was.
>>
>> this is primarily down to the Chassis. The total area of the chassis was
>> 6600cm, but I found that I was able to reduce this to 4250cm. As its a
>> prototype, id allowed extra room for design changes but actually found
>> that
>> I have more room than I thought I would.
>>
>> In hindsight, I perhaps could have gotten away with an aluminium chassis
>> instead of galvanised steel, but Ive actually wrecked a couple of digital
>> pianos before by simply getting carried away (the switching mechanisms
>> and
>> PCB's tend to be the things that fail) and wanted to build this on the
>> tough
>> side.
>>
>> Are you hoping to build your own keyboard?
>>
>> EK
>>
>>
>>
>>
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