[sdiy] rack enclosures
ASSI
Stromeko at Compuserve.DE
Tue Mar 6 07:43:00 CET 2007
On Montag, 5. März 2007 23:17, Hallvard Tangeraas wrote:
> The lettering on commercially sold 19" rack module synths (Yamaha,
> Roland, Korg etc.) is done by silk-screen printing, isn't it?
Either that or a screen print transfer.
> This is
> the sort of quality and look I'm aiming for, but I hear it's very
> expensive for one-off productions such as home-made projects like
> this (I have several projects in the works, but they'll naturally all
> be different projects with different front panel lettering).
It is not all that difficult to do this, provided you can do the photo
work yourself and have a bit of time for experimentation. Before I
look up all the english terms in a dictionary, head to Wikipedia for a
much better explanation than I could give... :-)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_printing
And then (check the other articles on that site as well):
http://www.signindustry.com/screen/articles/2001-01-01-screenprinting101.php3
http://www.signindustry.com/screen/articles/2001-02-02-screenprinting101pt2.php3
http://www.signindustry.com/screen/articles/2001-08-30-screenprinting101pt3.php3
http://www.signindustry.com/screen/articles/2001-09-13-screenprinting101pt4.php3
http://www.signindustry.com/screen/articles/2002-07-13-BS-FilmCareer.php3
The materials (paint & thinner, squeegee, screen, frame, photo emulsion
and developer) are readily available from art supply stores both on-
and offline. If you can, get a kit so that all these parts are sure to
work well together. The thing that needs (most) experimentation is the
time of exposure of the screen, the consistency of the paint and the
tension of the screen as well as the distance of it to the workpiece.
Since all your panels will be of about the same size, you'll have to do
this only once. Epoxy (2K) paints give the most durable results on
metal, but are a bit iffy to work with. Check the instructions that
come with the paint carefully, some paints really need a primer and
won't stick to bare metal very well; others need to be cured in an
oven.
> So you're saying that there should be a 19" rack front panel on both
> ends? That would mean that the 19" rack cabinet/shelf/flight-case or
> whatever would have to have the exact depth of the distance between
> these two panels.
There's no need for a second panel, but you need something to affix the
rear end of the box to the rear rails of the rack. What this is very
much depends on the construction of the rack. If rear and front rails
are identical, then you'd just need two additional L brackets. A pair
of slotted holes on the bracket takes care of any depth differences.
Unless you never need to remove the enclosure from the rack a rack
shelf or sliding tray is the better (if more expensive) solution. You
may be able to get slide bars from a junked rack server enclosure, the
only problem is that often the necessary counterpart is still in the
rack that went to a different junkyard...
Achim.
--
+<[Q+ Matrix-12 WAVE#46 Neuron microQkb Andromeda XTk sonic heaven]>+
SD adaptation for Waldorf microQ V2.22R2:
http://Synth.Stromeko.net/Downloads.html#WaldorfSDada
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