[sdiy] Synth Keybards and Number of Keys
Edward King
edwardcking2001 at yahoo.co.uk
Sat Mar 3 01:55:26 CET 2007
Comments added in-line.
>
> On 2 Mar 2007, at 15:58, Edward King wrote:
>
> Edward,
>
> Firstly I apologise for emailing you before directly without asking you
> first. I thought I was responding to the group.
No need to apologise. email away mate.
Just one thing though, I was slightly put-out in the bit where you offered
me only 20 bucks for sex. I think Im worth at least dinner and 30.
>
>> another alternative might be to fill the void with something light but
>> "damping" such as balsa wood.
>
> Yes. It's funny that balsa is classified as a hardwood. The wood of
> choice for professional modelmakers and patternmakers is Jelutong.
> http://www.ema-models.co.uk/shop/catpages/page-LF.html#LF11
>
> This has more inherent strength than balsa, a closer, even, grain and
> doesn't fluff up so much when you sand it and is still quite light
> compared to many woods. Another one to try.
Thanks for that. Like a lot of "tinkerers" I guess Ive always just stuck
with what I used when I learned and need a kick every so often from more
adventurous types to motivate us into trying new things.
I might order some and try it out. Is it strong enough for use on CF panel
building? Ive got a set of countach panels to put together sometime in the
next few months and the trusses are always a pain in the behind.
>
>> I would hate to leave you with the impression that I dismissed such a
>> grand idea out of hand becuase in truth there are real benefits to this
>> method and many would benefit more from using this method than the way I
>> have eventually tackled building a homebrew keyboard.
>
> Not at all. I probably steamed in half-cocked, mid topic, anyway. I am
> sure your solution is admirable.
Well, wooden keys are - I guess quite dated. Which is why - I suspect - not
that many people are enthused about using this method.
I have 3 sockets for additional keyboards though (+ midi ins for MIDI -
yuk - keyboards) so perhaps I'll get around to playing around with the
composites route again.
I would like to build keyboards using all of the technologies Ive tested and
set up a "back to back" test, rather than just building 1 octave of each
(which is what I did). If I can find the time, I'll do this and report the
actual data (vibration, noise, sensitivity etc).
>
>> So my advice to anyone wanting to build their own would be "Do it this
>> way!" but with a few modifications of the basic: Plug -> Mold -
>> > Piece approach.
>
> I assumed a pivot bush or bracket would need to be included, or post-
> drilled and inserted. Some of the keys I have seen glue on three sides
> around a U section channel, with a spring at the rear.
Sorry, Im being thick because I cant visualise what you mean. Any chance you
can forward me a diagram please?
With mine, I just drill a 10mm OD hole through the side of the key, hammer a
piece of brass tube (10mm OD, 6mm inside diameter) into the hole and use a
6mm HSS drill bit to slightly increase the inside diameter of the tube until
there is no binding on the pivot rod.
>
> I am a much better modelmaker than musician. And better at electronics
> too, come to think of it. I built various synths in days of yore and have
> just been rekindling some interest.
>
> John
have you ever built any digital synths?
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