[sdiy] Synth Keybards and Number of Keys

Edward King edwardcking2001 at yahoo.co.uk
Sat Mar 3 01:55:26 CET 2007


Comments added in-line.


>
> On 2 Mar 2007, at 15:58, Edward King wrote:
>
> Edward,
>
> Firstly I apologise for emailing you before directly without asking  you 
> first. I thought I was responding to the group.

No need to apologise. email away mate.
Just one thing though, I was slightly put-out in the bit where you offered 
me only 20 bucks for sex. I think Im worth at least dinner and 30.

>
>> another alternative might be to fill the void with something light  but 
>> "damping" such as balsa wood.
>
> Yes. It's funny that balsa is classified as a hardwood. The wood of 
> choice for professional modelmakers and patternmakers is Jelutong.
> http://www.ema-models.co.uk/shop/catpages/page-LF.html#LF11
>
> This has more inherent strength than balsa, a closer, even, grain and 
> doesn't fluff up so much when you sand it and is still quite light 
> compared to many woods. Another one to try.

Thanks for that. Like a lot of "tinkerers" I guess Ive always just stuck 
with what I used when I learned and need a kick every so often from more 
adventurous types to motivate us into trying new things.
I might order some and try it out. Is it strong enough for use on CF panel 
building? Ive got a set of countach panels to put together sometime in the 
next few months and the trusses are always a pain in the behind.

>
>> I would hate to leave you with the impression that I dismissed such  a 
>> grand idea out of hand becuase in truth there are real benefits  to this 
>> method and many would benefit more from using this method  than the way I 
>> have eventually tackled building a homebrew keyboard.
>
> Not at all. I probably steamed in half-cocked, mid topic, anyway. I  am 
> sure your solution is admirable.

Well, wooden keys are - I guess quite dated. Which is why - I suspect - not 
that many people are enthused about using this method.
I have 3 sockets for additional keyboards though (+ midi ins for MIDI - 
yuk - keyboards) so perhaps I'll get around to playing around with the 
composites route again.

I would like to build keyboards using all of the technologies Ive tested and 
set up a "back to back" test, rather than just building 1 octave of each 
(which is what I did). If I can find the time, I'll do this and report the 
actual data (vibration, noise, sensitivity etc).

>
>> So my advice to anyone wanting to build their own would be "Do it  this 
>> way!" but with a few modifications of the basic: Plug -> Mold -
>> > Piece approach.
>
> I assumed a pivot bush or bracket would need to be included, or post- 
> drilled and inserted. Some of the keys I have seen glue on three  sides 
> around a U section channel, with a spring at the rear.

Sorry, Im being thick because I cant visualise what you mean. Any chance you 
can forward me a diagram please?

With mine, I just drill a 10mm OD hole through the side of the key, hammer a 
piece of brass tube (10mm OD, 6mm inside diameter) into the hole and use a 
6mm HSS drill bit to slightly increase the inside diameter of the tube until 
there is no binding on the pivot rod.

>
> I am a much better modelmaker than musician. And better at  electronics 
> too, come to think of it. I built various synths in days  of yore and have 
> just been rekindling some interest.
>
> John

have you ever built any digital synths?


		
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