SV: Re: [sdiy] Re: Frontpanel graphics, direct toner.

[karl dalen]

More then likely! You can skip the sodaizing step if sanding.

I just tested a rotating sander (do you call that machine that?) on a panel
of alu and it looks very nice, the rotating gives a peculiar surface.
Try it! :-)

KD 


--- Anthony Rolando <goldenechos at hotmail.com> skrev:

> On preparing the Aluminum surface. Have any of you had any luck with simply 
> sanding the surface? I have some panels I made from scrap aluminum. They are 
> pretty scratched up. I was going to sand them in one direction, leaving a 
> vertical pattern. Will this be enough to get the toner and varnish to stick?
> 
> TR
> 
> 
> >From: "Samppa Tolvanen" <samppa.tolvanen at gmail.com>
> >To: "karl dalen" <dalenkarl at yahoo.se>
> >CC: synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl
> >Subject: Re: [sdiy] Re: Frontpanel graphics, direct toner.
> >Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2007 13:44:15 +0300
> >
> >On 7/8/07, karl dalen <dalenkarl at yahoo.se> wrote:
> >>
> >>You are not passivated in that sense, what you are doing is "roughen"
> >>up the surface of the aluminium (it also cleans the surface) so the
> >>toner has something to grip on when transfered from the paper.
> >>
> >>The Naho corrodes the alu surface, after transfer of toner you then 
> >>"close"
> >>the surface by the varnish, enamel, lacquer.
> >>
> >
> >This is the same as with painting "natural" aluminium, paints won't
> >stick on shiny unprepared surface. This helps paint/toner to bond in
> >the surface.
> >
> >
> >> >1)Have you tried using color printers, or do you just use black 
> >>lettering on
> >> >natural aluminum.
> >>
> >>Yes! A very expensive HP color laserjet! :-(
> >>It didn't turn out well, it seams that the toner are to thin on the paper!
> >>
> >
> >I did this with Color Laserjet 5M (fusing temperature ~ 190 Celsius)
> >using transparency as transfer media -> to the iron surface - it
> >worked out well.
> >
> >Samppa
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> 
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> 
> 



		
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