[sdiy] cr-8000 button fix progress

[gregory zifcak]

well,
i used the conductive paint pen on all the buttons. they all work like a 
dream now, just the right amount of pressure, no double triggering. we'll 
see how long it lasts.
thanks for all the advice,
greg


>From: "elmacaco" <elmacaco at nyc.rr.com>
>To: "gregory zifcak" <zifcak at hotmail.com>, <resfreq at hoohahrecords.com>,     
>    <synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
>Subject: Re: [sdiy] cr-8000 button fix progress
>Date: Sat, 13 May 2006 14:18:14 -0500
>
>I got some of this stuff from a music store, Sam Ash, it;s called rubber
>renue, cost about five bucks.
>
>says it contains DIMETHYLBENZENE CAS# 1330-20-7, METHYL SALICYLATE
>CAS#119-36-8.
>
>I would like to see your pics, if the conductive pen ir the rubber stuff
>works I'd love to hear about it, I have a cr-8000 here witha  few iffy
>buttons and I'd like to fix it and future proof it all at once.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "gregory zifcak" <zifcak at hotmail.com>
>To: <resfreq at hoohahrecords.com>; <synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
>Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 12:36 PM
>Subject: Re: [sdiy] cr-8000 button fix progress
>
>
> > i took pictures of the pads and contacts. i'll try to post them later
>today.
> > the erasers worked pretty well on the contacts, but there's still a 
>little
> > gunk i'd like to get off if possible. i'm soaking them in warm soapy 
>water
> > right now.
> > as far as the pads, does anyone know what is in the pinch roller 
>cleaner?
>i
> > see some cassette cleaner kits at radio shack, but they all say they can
>be
> > used on the heads and pinch rollers, leading me to believe they contain
> > alcohol. i think what i may do is just get a conductive paint pen and 
>coat
> > the pads with that. hopefully that doesn' wear off easily.
> >
> >
> > >From: "Dave Magnuson" <resfreq at hoohahrecords.com>
> > >To: "gregory zifcak" <zifcak at hotmail.com>
> > >Subject: Re: [sdiy] cr-8000 button fix progress
> > >Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 20:32:13 -0400
> > >
> > >Hi Greg,
> > >
> > >I haven't had a peek inside of CR-8000 in particular.    But I've seen
> > >conductive rubber contacts in most Roland gear... so I'd assume it's a
> > >similar substance.
> > >
> > >could you take a digital picture of it?   I'll try to see if it looks
> > >similar
> > >
> > >Also, see Tim's post about Isopropyl alcohol.... I always call it
>"rubbing
> > >alcohol", but he's right.    98% pure is the stuff to use.   You could
>also
> > >use 180+ proof (90% pure) vodka if you have grain alcohol available at
>your
> > >local liquor store.   Any fast evaporating, high purity alcohol (No
> > >smoking, please!)
> > >
> > >Dave
> > >
> > >
> > >----- Original Message ----- From: "gregory zifcak" 
><zifcak at hotmail.com>
> > >To: <resfreq at hoohahrecords.com>; <synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
> > >Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 5:28 PM
> > >Subject: Re: [sdiy] cr-8000 button fix progress
> > >
> > >
> > >>dave,
> > >>thanks.  i'll definitely try the eraser and rubbing alcohol on the 
>metal
> > >>contacts.
> > >>is this rubber membrane the same as the material on cr-8000 buttons? 
>it
> > >>appears to be some type of pad that is about 1/16" thick attached to 
>the
> > >>bottom of the moving plastic piece.
> > >>greg
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>From: "Dave Magnuson" <resfreq at hoohahrecords.com>
> > >>>To: "gregory zifcak" <zifcak at hotmail.com>,
><synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
> > >>>Subject: Re: [sdiy] cr-8000 button fix progress
> > >>>Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 16:57:29 -0400
> > >>>
> > >>>Hi Gregory,
> > >>>
> > >>>I typically clean Roland rubber membrane contacts with a pencil 
>eraser
> > >>>(be gentle!) to remove the oxidization on the surface.   I then treat
>the
> > >>>rubber with pinch roller cleaner for reel-to-reel (and cassette) 
>decks.
> > >>>It's a cleaner and conditioner that is supposed to help keep the 
>rubber
> > >>>from drying out.  My bottle is Teac brand.... so check Teac/Tascam to
>see
> > >>>if they still make it.
> > >>>
> > >>>Has worked well for me so far.   Be sure to use pinch roller 
>cleaner...
> > >>>not tape head cleaner (which is almost straight alcohol).   The 
>alcohol
> > >>>will dry out the rubber.     I also clean the metal portion of the
> > >>>contacts with an eraser and rubbing alcohol.   I've repaired about 10
> > >>>keyboards this way with no problems yet.
> > >>>
> > >>>Another side note....  this works great on tarnished contacts in
>Technics
> > >>>SL1200 tonearms... eraser and alcohol.   Works much better than the
> > >>>typical DJ fix (licking the cartridges before putting them in)... 
>Makes
> > >>>me cringe every time I see someone do it.   (Not to mention what one
>may
> > >>>find on a club's house tables...yuck!... nothing I'd want in my 
>mouth)
> > >>>
> > >>>Dave Magnuson
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>----- Original Message ----- From: "gregory zifcak"
><zifcak at hotmail.com>
> > >>>To: <rude66 at gmail.com>; <synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
> > >>>Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 4:14 PM
> > >>>Subject: Re: [sdiy] cr-8000 button fix progress
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>>i'm considering this. my one hesitation is that maybe the pads have
> > >>>>dried out after 20 years, and that's why they deteriorated. if 
>that's
> > >>>>the case, they might fail much quicker next time. i'm not sure if
> > >>>>they're supposed to be hard or somewhat spongey. hmm.
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>>From: rude66 <rude66 at gmail.com>
> > >>>>>To: "gregory zifcak" <zifcak at hotmail.com>
> > >>>>>CC: synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl
> > >>>>>Subject: Re: [sdiy] cr-8000 button fix progress
> > >>>>>Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 22:07:55 +0200
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>it depends how long the switches pad would work. if it's taken 20+
> > >>>>>years to
> > >>>>>get to this state, then hey.. i'll worry about it in 20 years
> > >>>>>again..;-) but
> > >>>>>if it'll only last 3 years or so, something more permanent may be 
>in
> > >>>>>order..
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>r./
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>On 5/11/06, gregory zifcak <zifcak at hotmail.com> wrote:
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>well,
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>i've managed to desolder all the buttons. whew! that IS labor
> > >>>>>>intensive. i
> > >>>>>>definitely want to come up with a permanent solution so i don't 
>have
> > >>>>>>to do
> > >>>>>>this again.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>looking at the switch mechanism, there are two metal plates, each
>with
> > >>>>>>a
> > >>>>>>tiny bump. these come into contact with the conductive material on
>the
> > >>>>>>other
> > >>>>>>part of the switch, bridging the connection. the worn out buttons
>have
> > >>>>>>2
> > >>>>>>little worn holes in the conductive pad, apparently caused by the
> > >>>>>>repeated
> > >>>>>>poking of the tiny bumps.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>now, it looks like i could just rotate the conductive pads 90
>degrees
> > >>>>>>and
> > >>>>>>have a fresh surface to press against the bumps, but they would
> > >>>>>>inevitably
> > >>>>>>fail again the exact same way. i'm wondering if these bumps would
>also
> > >>>>>>wear
> > >>>>>>away at conductive paint or aluminum foil glued to the pads.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>any thoughts?
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>greg
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >
> >
>