[sdiy] U-20 questions
WeAreAs1 at aol.com
WeAreAs1 at aol.com
Thu Jun 23 13:35:29 CEST 2005
In a message dated 6/22/05 11:26:14 PM, sounddoctorin at imt.net writes:
<< Tony Kalomiris wrote:
> Hi Tim,
>
> I have a U-20 here with 'dead' keys problem too, except it doesn't
> respond even over MIDI.
> Only some notes in each octave (I forget which) work.I removed every
> key, spring - pain in the arse !
> I washed the keys, but didn't touch the carbon pads. >>
Just to be perfectly clear, are you referring to the MIDI In or the MIDI Out?
If you're talking about the MIDI Out, then, yeah, the problem probably does
lie somewhere in the keyboard or key scanning circuit. That unit has one of
those Roland Key Scanning Gate Arrays, and they can go bad -- but only very
rarely, so don't jump to that first, especially if you're inexperienced with
repairing surface-mount IC's.
Also, do you have the same dead keys no matter what sound you call up? Try
lots of different sounds, just to make sure -- not just two or three adjacent
sounds. The reason I ask is because very occasionally, one of the Mask Wave
ROM IC's can go bad, and you might lose just some of the sounds, or some of the
key ranges -- but the specific keys that go south would not always be the same
ones for every patch. I have seen this happen on U-20's before. The fix was
to replace the Mask Wave ROM IC -- about $35.00 from Roland. If this is the
problem, then you would have the same dead notes whether you played them from
the keyboard OR from MIDI (by controlling the U-20 via an external MIDI
keyboard plugged into the U-20's MIDI Input). If you try this test with an external
MIDI controller, and the bad notes do work with the external controller, then
the Wave ROMs are definitely NOT the problem, and you should concentrate on
the keyboard (first) and the key scanning stuff (second). If the problem
exists both from the U-20 keyboard and from an external MIDI keyboard, then your
problem *definitely* has nothing to do with the U-20's keyboard or key contacts,
and the Mask ROMs start looking rather suspect.
I don't have the schematic handy, so I am not sure whether the MIDI IN is
routed directly into that Gate Array IC (which is possible, but still unlikely,
even for an oddball unit like the U-20...). Bob W. <sounddoctorin at imt.net> has
the schem, and can let us know if this is or isn't the case. If the U-20
MIDI In does go through the Gate Array, and the trouble shows up both with the
U-20 keys and with MIDI Input, then the Gate Array could be the problem .
Again, you really don't want it to be the Gate Array, because you're probably not
qualified to repair that yourself (without destroying things in the process).
BTW, sometimes Roland puts this Gate Array IC on a separate circuit board, and
not on the Main Board (like, for intance, on the D-50) -- again, Bob can
quickly verify this for you. If the trouble turns out to be related to the Gate
Array, I would first VERY CAREFULLY reflow the solder on all the pins of the
Gate Array IC. Again, not an easy task for someone without surface-mount
experience, but definitely easier than actually removing and replacing the chip.
This sort of reflow is best done with liquid solder flux, and NOT with fresh
solder. Use a magnifying glass to check your work. Did I mention that it must
be done VERY CAREFULLY? Just making sure.
On the subject of things that you probably are qualified to repair yourself,
take a close look at all of the diodes on the keyboard contact board. Use a
magnifying glass if you've got one. Look for cracked or broken diodes, or
diodes that may have bad solder connections on the board. If you have a meter
that can check diodes, test each one of them (you don't need to remove them from
the PCB to test them). You may have a diode or diodes that are internally
bad, and the only way to see this is with your meter. You can replace those
diodes with any standard small-signal silicon diode, such as 1N4148 or 1N914 --
widely available everywhere. Also look carefully at the solder connections for
the connectors for the keyboard scanning lines both at the keyboard end as
well as at the Main Board end. Go ahead and touch up all of these connections
with fresh solder -- it'll only take a minute or two, and it may instantly nail
the problem.
Michael Bacich
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