[sdiy] insert wood-finishing tips here

[James Coplin]

Since most of the work I do is with highly figured wood, I find 220 is
needed to get rid of some of the fuzziness that can occur in many species.
180 should be sufficient for the wood in this case.  However, anything less
in grit will run the risk of cuts that will show.  Even when hand sanding
you get these scratches.  They might be less noticeable because they run
with the grain but they are there and can be seen.  If you want to hand sand
instead of using a sander, go right ahead.  I’ve never had a problem
over-sanding with a finishing palm sander but I spent ages doing it by hand
so I know whats up to begin with.  If using lower grits on a palm sander it
could be easy to dish a hollow out a spot while trying to remove the
varnish.  If you haven’t done this sort of thing before, doing it by hand as
suggested would probably be best to avoid other problems.
 
James
 
  _____  

From: owner-synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl
[mailto:owner-synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl] On Behalf Of drheqx
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 12:46 AM
To: 'diy synth'
Subject: RE: [sdiy] insert wood-finishing tips here
 
>http://www.retrosynth.com/ah/search/lookit.cgi?-v0408.1039
 
 
Jim,
 
Looks good, but I don’t like using a machine on a small piece, especially ¾”
panel edges. It causes a lot of issues that you don’t get with hand sanding.
Like cross grain scratches that fuzz out the grain. Hand sanding takes
longer per grit, but you don’t have to use all of the grades because you are
not removing any cross grain artifacts from the previous step. I do think
that I should have suggested to Chad to go another grade or two on the
initial sanding. It would be better to go to 150 on the wood itself. I have
not found a need to go to 220 on wood. 
 
Thanks,
heqx
 
 
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