[sdiy] pcb rework and conformal coat
Tony Clark
clark at andrews.edu
Wed Jan 12 16:17:30 CET 2005
> Since we're talking PCB's, I've got two questions:
> What's a good conformal coating (clear coat)
> and how can I remove conformal coat in order to solder on a purchaced module?
Cheap and good conformal coating:
Clear Polyurethane paint
We've been using this stuff for years and it works VERY well.
As for removing conformal coatings, are you referring to an existing
coating, or what you'd use to remove the polyurethane? If it's the poly,
you can actually just use a soldering iron to burn it off, kinda stinks,
but it can be done. Otherwise, a small amount of some form of thinnner
would probably work.
Now if you're talking about industrial conformal coating, a really
thick and waxy substance, then you're talking about RTV. As I recall,
Xylene thins that stuff down.
As for why you'd need to use conformal coating, typically you don't.
The only reason that I can think of is the same reason why we use it here
at work: humidity
The circuits we build are very high-gain, and just breathing on the
circuits causes gain errors! So a light coat of the polyurethane seals
everything up and keeps the circuits behaving like they should.
At Square D where I used to work, they used RTV to seal up boards.
These were medical-use smart circuit protection units and needed to be
environmentally rugged. Nasty stuff, we'd get out a huge bucket, fill a
squeeze bottle with the RTV, and then just slather it on until every nook
and cranny was well gooped. What dripped into the bucket got reused
until the whole thing was too thick to get out of the bottle. :)
Needless to say, RTV didn't go on those boards until they went through
thermal shock, 24-hour burn-in, and at least 3 testing cycles! You
definately didn't want to repair these things after they got sealed up!
Cheers,
Tony
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