[sdiy] solder questions

James Patchell patchell at cox.net
Wed Sep 8 03:22:49 CEST 2004


Leaving Kester 44 alone is a lot better than doing a half ass job of 
cleaning it.  I have stuff around here that is 30+ years old that was 
assembled with Kester 44 and never cleaned...still works just fine.  If you 
live where the is 100% humidity all the time, you might have a problem.

At 05:59 PM 9/7/2004 -0700, Tentochi wrote:
>Do most people *not* clean their Kester 44 boards?  I think I still have a 
>couple of rolls on the
>bench somewhere.
>
>I received 2 boards from Cyndustries like this (uncleaned 44), and 
>cosmetically it looked terrible
>especially next to my other shiny boards.  I was surprised to say the least.
>
>For people that *do* clean their Kester 44 boards, what methods do you use 
>to clean them?
>
>I do believe the majority of active synth DIYers have switched over to 331 
>and 245 though, right?
>
>--Todd
>
> > Kester 44 is clasified, believe it or not, as a no clean flux...Kester 245
> > just make less mess...
>
> > >I didn't know anyone was still regularly using rosin core such as Kester
> > >44.  I only use it for
> > >very tricky jobs or specialized rework/repair; even then, I try and avoid
> > >it.  Pretty much
> > >everyone has switched over to organic (water soluable) and no-clean
> > >fluxxes.  In North America,
> > >most people are using the Kester versions (331 and 245 respectively) of
> > >these.  I forget the brand
> > >they are typically using in Europe.  The following information is taken
> > >from Dave B's excellent
> > >Hot Rod MOTM site (http://www.hotrodmotm.com) (pricing is a few years 
> old,
> > >so YMMV).  I know at
> > >least John Blacet (http://www.blacet.com) and Tony Allgood
> > >(http://www.oakleysound.com) have
> > >followed in Paul Scheiber's footsteps (http://www.synthtech.com) in this
> > >area.  Paul goes a step
> > >further in including these Kester solders in all of his MOTM 
> kits.  Thanks
> > >Paul!
> > >
> > >ORGANIC
> > >--Kester #24-6337-6401, 331 water soluble core, .020 dia., 1 lb. (This is
> > >the water clean solder
> > >supplied in MOTM kits)
> > >**Allied #833-1455, 1-9 $16.67
> > >**Mouser #533-24-6337-6401, 1-9 $17.98
> > >
> > >NO-CLEAN
> > >--Kester #24-6337-8814, 245 no-clean, .050 dia., 1 lb. (This is the no
> > >clean solder supplied in
> > >MOTM kits)
> > >**Mouser #533-24-6337-8814, 1-9 $ 12.06
> > >--Kester #24-6337-8800, 245 no-clean, .031 dia., 1 lb. (If you want a
> > >thinner no clean solder)
> > >**Mouser #533-24-6337-8800, 1-9 $ 12.86
> > >
> > >The water-soluble flux is very corrosive (please correct me if I don't 
> use
> > >the right words
> > >describing this) and needs to be washed within an hour or so of usage.  I
> > >use normal tap water,
> > >but some suggest using de-ionized or filtered water to avoid any
> > >residue.  The flux is OSHAA
> > >approved to go down your household sink.  I use a small fingernail brush
> > >to help out; some use a
> > >tooth brush.
> > >
> > >The no-clean type solder doesn't flow quite as well, but is typically 
> used
> > >on items that shouldn't
> > >get wet such as pots, jacks and hook-up wire.  The water-soluable type is
> > >used on the balance.
> > >
> > >There is some flux residue from the no-clean flux, and it does not 
> need to
> > >be removed.  For
> > >cosmetic reasons, some people do remove it and there are several products
> > >that are readily
> > >available commercially for this purpose.
> > >
> > > >  is there a solder type that is preferred these
> > > > days for general-purpose work (i.e. everything: outboard parts as well
> > > > as PCB work, tube sockets, perfboard, and other no-clean applications)?
> > > >   I'm still using the old-school stuff, Kester 44, and occasionally
> > > > silver solder for a few applications, but I know there's a wide variety
> > > > of other stuff available.  Is there any advantage to using the newer
> > > > products?
> > >
> > >This should increase your joy of soldering immensely.
> > >
> > >--Todd (fellow solder jockey)
>
>
>
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         -Jim
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