[sdiy] solder questions

[Cynthia Webster]

on 9/7/04 2:22 PM, Harry Bissell Jr at harrybissell at prodigy.net wrote:

> OK so I'm old school...
> 
> I use Kester 44.   Within three minutes of soldering
> the flux becomes brittle and does not stick to the
> soldermask. It can be flicked off the joint with a
> slighly dull scratch awl.  I brush the dust off with a
> toothbrush and use no chemicals at all.
> 
> If it is SUPER MISSION CRITICAL like a S/H... I might
> follow with a flux cleaner or denatured alcohol.
> 
> In most cases just mechanically cleaning the board is
> fine EVEN for critical circuits. I have yet to see a
> flux related problem on one of my boards...
> 
> H^) harry

I agree with you Harry, I do it ~exactly~ the same way.
(After trying all the fancy alternatives I'm sold on
good old number 44)

Cyn




> 
> --- Ralph Karsten <ralph at atma-sphere.com> wrote:
> 
>> Hi Guys-
>> 
>> FWIW, the *really* correct solder is going to be
>> some varient of SN63. That is, if you get tired of
>> bad solderjoints... (SN62 if gold, silver or rodium
>> are involved in the connection).
>> 
>> -Ralph
>> 
>> 
>>> is there a solder type that is preferred these
>>> days for general-purpose work (i.e. everything:
>> outboard parts as well
>>> as PCB work, tube sockets, perfboard, and other
>> no-clean applications)?
>>> I'm still using the old-school stuff, Kester 44,
>> and occasionally
>>> silver solder for a few applications, but I know
>> there's a wide variety
>>> of other stuff available.  Is there any advantage
>> to using the newer
>>> products?
>> 
>> This should increase your joy of soldering
>> immensely.
>> 
>> --Todd (fellow solder jockey)
>> 
>>> Paul--
>>> 
>>> I didn't know anyone was still regularly using
>> rosin core such as Kester 44.  I only use it for
>>> very tricky jobs or specialized rework/repair;
>> even then, I try and avoid it.  Pretty much
>>> everyone has switched over to organic (water
>> soluable) and no-clean fluxxes.  In North America,
>>> most people are using the Kester versions (331 and
>> 245 respectively) of these.  I forget the brand
>>> they are typically using in Europe.  The following
>> information is taken from Dave B's excellent
>>> Hot Rod MOTM site (http://www.hotrodmotm.com)
>> (pricing is a few years old, so YMMV).  I know at
>>> least John Blacet (http://www.blacet.com) and Tony
>> Allgood (http://www.oakleysound.com) have
>>> followed in Paul Scheiber's footsteps
>> (http://www.synthtech.com) in this area.  Paul goes
>> a step
>>> further in including these Kester solders in all
>> of his MOTM kits.  Thanks Paul!
>>> 
>>> ORGANIC
>>> --Kester #24-6337-6401, 331 water soluble core,
>> .020 dia., 1 lb. (This is the water clean solder
>>> supplied in MOTM kits)
>>> **Allied #833-1455, 1-9 $16.67
>>> **Mouser #533-24-6337-6401, 1-9 $17.98
>>> 
>>> NO-CLEAN
>>> --Kester #24-6337-8814, 245 no-clean, .050 dia., 1
>> lb. (This is the no clean solder supplied in
>>> MOTM kits) 
>>> **Mouser #533-24-6337-8814, 1-9 $ 12.06
>>> --Kester #24-6337-8800, 245 no-clean, .031 dia., 1
>> lb. (If you want a thinner no clean solder)
>>> **Mouser #533-24-6337-8800, 1-9 $ 12.86
>>> 
>>> The water-soluble flux is very corrosive (please
>> correct me if I don't use the right words
>>> describing this) and needs to be washed within an
>> hour or so of usage.  I use normal tap water,
>>> but some suggest using de-ionized or filtered
>> water to avoid any residue.  The flux is OSHAA
>>> approved to go down your household sink.  I use a
>> small fingernail brush to help out; some use a
>>> tooth brush.
>>> 
>>> The no-clean type solder doesn't flow quite as
>> well, but is typically used on items that shouldn't
>>> get wet such as pots, jacks and hook-up wire.  The
>> water-soluable type is used on the balance.
>>> 
>>> There is some flux residue from the no-clean flux,
>> and it does not need to be removed.  For
>>> cosmetic reasons, some people do remove it and
>> there are several products that are readily
>>> available commercially for this purpose.
>>> 
>>>> is there a solder type that is preferred these
>>>> days for general-purpose work (i.e. everything:
>> outboard parts as well
>>>> as PCB work, tube sockets, perfboard, and other
>> no-clean applications)?
>>>> I'm still using the old-school stuff, Kester
>> 44, and occasionally
>>>> silver solder for a few applications, but I know
>> there's a wide variety
>>>> of other stuff available.  Is there any
>> advantage to using the newer
>>>> products?
>>> 
>>> This should increase your joy of soldering
>> immensely.
>>> 
>>> --Todd (fellow solder jockey)
>>> 
>> 
>