[sdiy] solder questions

[Oren Leavitt]

I agree,

I have stuff I've soldered with good ol '44' and homemade PCBs 20+ years ago that still works great today, after years of cold/heat/humidity/bugs/rodents etc.
All I've done is scratch it clean with the end of paper clip or an awl after the rosin has cooled. For S&H circuits, I would just 'airwire' the critical part.
Rosin is hygroscopic and does tend absorb water if it's really humid.

Oren

-----Original Message-----
From: Harry Bissell Jr <harrybissell at prodigy.net>
Sent: Sep 7, 2004 2:22 PM
To: Ralph Karsten <ralph at atma-sphere.com>, Tentochi <tentochi2003 at yahoo.com>
Cc: synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl
Subject: Re: [sdiy] solder questions

OK so I'm old school...

I use Kester 44.   Within three minutes of soldering
the flux becomes brittle and does not stick to the
soldermask. It can be flicked off the joint with a
slighly dull scratch awl.  I brush the dust off with a
toothbrush and use no chemicals at all.

If it is SUPER MISSION CRITICAL like a S/H... I might
follow with a flux cleaner or denatured alcohol.

In most cases just mechanically cleaning the board is
fine EVEN for critical circuits. I have yet to see a
flux related problem on one of my boards...

H^) harry

--- Ralph Karsten <ralph at atma-sphere.com> wrote:

> Hi Guys-
> 
> FWIW, the *really* correct solder is going to be
> some varient of SN63. That is, if you get tired of
> bad solderjoints... (SN62 if gold, silver or rodium
> are involved in the connection).
> 
> -Ralph
> 
> 
> >  is there a solder type that is preferred these 
> > days for general-purpose work (i.e. everything:
> outboard parts as well 
> > as PCB work, tube sockets, perfboard, and other
> no-clean applications)? 
> >   I'm still using the old-school stuff, Kester 44,
> and occasionally 
> > silver solder for a few applications, but I know
> there's a wide variety 
> > of other stuff available.  Is there any advantage
> to using the newer 
> > products?
> 
> This should increase your joy of soldering
> immensely.
> 
> --Todd (fellow solder jockey)
> 
> > Paul--
> > 
> > I didn't know anyone was still regularly using
> rosin core such as Kester 44.  I only use it for
> > very tricky jobs or specialized rework/repair;
> even then, I try and avoid it.  Pretty much
> > everyone has switched over to organic (water
> soluable) and no-clean fluxxes.  In North America,
> > most people are using the Kester versions (331 and
> 245 respectively) of these.  I forget the brand
> > they are typically using in Europe.  The following
> information is taken from Dave B's excellent
> > Hot Rod MOTM site (http://www.hotrodmotm.com)
> (pricing is a few years old, so YMMV).  I know at
> > least John Blacet (http://www.blacet.com) and Tony
> Allgood (http://www.oakleysound.com) have
> > followed in Paul Scheiber's footsteps
> (http://www.synthtech.com) in this area.  Paul goes
> a step
> > further in including these Kester solders in all
> of his MOTM kits.  Thanks Paul!
> > 
> > ORGANIC
> > --Kester #24-6337-6401, 331 water soluble core,
> .020 dia., 1 lb. (This is the water clean solder
> > supplied in MOTM kits)
> > **Allied #833-1455, 1-9 $16.67
> > **Mouser #533-24-6337-6401, 1-9 $17.98 
> > 
> > NO-CLEAN
> > --Kester #24-6337-8814, 245 no-clean, .050 dia., 1
> lb. (This is the no clean solder supplied in
> > MOTM kits) 
> > **Mouser #533-24-6337-8814, 1-9 $ 12.06 
> > --Kester #24-6337-8800, 245 no-clean, .031 dia., 1
> lb. (If you want a thinner no clean solder) 
> > **Mouser #533-24-6337-8800, 1-9 $ 12.86 
> > 
> > The water-soluble flux is very corrosive (please
> correct me if I don't use the right words
> > describing this) and needs to be washed within an
> hour or so of usage.  I use normal tap water,
> > but some suggest using de-ionized or filtered
> water to avoid any residue.  The flux is OSHAA
> > approved to go down your household sink.  I use a
> small fingernail brush to help out; some use a
> > tooth brush.
> > 
> > The no-clean type solder doesn't flow quite as
> well, but is typically used on items that shouldn't
> > get wet such as pots, jacks and hook-up wire.  The
> water-soluable type is used on the balance.
> > 
> > There is some flux residue from the no-clean flux,
> and it does not need to be removed.  For
> > cosmetic reasons, some people do remove it and
> there are several products that are readily
> > available commercially for this purpose.
> > 
> > >  is there a solder type that is preferred these 
> > > days for general-purpose work (i.e. everything:
> outboard parts as well 
> > > as PCB work, tube sockets, perfboard, and other
> no-clean applications)? 
> > >   I'm still using the old-school stuff, Kester
> 44, and occasionally 
> > > silver solder for a few applications, but I know
> there's a wide variety 
> > > of other stuff available.  Is there any
> advantage to using the newer 
> > > products?
> > 
> > This should increase your joy of soldering
> immensely.
> > 
> > --Todd (fellow solder jockey)
> > 
>