[sdiy] optocouplers/Vactrols
Tim Parkhurst
tparkhurst at siliconbandwidth.com
Tue Oct 19 20:20:58 CEST 2004
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Higgins [mailto:higg0008 at tc.umn.edu]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2004 10:49 AM
> To: Metrophage
> Cc: synth-DIY
> Subject: Re: [sdiy] optocouplers/Vactrols
>
<snip>
> Well, that explains why I couldn't find any optocouplers on the
> Hamamatsu website, only LDRs. And I have heard that Clairex has
> gaps. I've also seen people use 35mm film canisters with holes punched
> in the bottom for the leads; kind of bulky, but it works. With the
> right LDR and construction, you can get pretty good performance even
> from DIY "Vactrols".
>
> -PRH
>
> On Tuesday, October 19, 2004, at 08:51 AM, Metrophage wrote:
>
> > I don't prefer any yet, I am just getting into them, like it sounds you
> > are. Each manufacturer makes units with various respective resistances
> > and response times.
> >
> > Clairex and Hamamatsu appear to be dropping their production of many,
> > if not all, analog photocouplers. There are still quite a few out
> > there. Compare specs for the values you need!
> >
> > CJ
>
</snip>
So, what are the big variables in DIY optocouplers? As far as I can tell,
there are three main areas:
1) LED current vs. output. Manufacturers variation from one part to the
next.
2) Photocell illumination vs. resistance. Again, variation from one part to
the next.
3) "Manufacturing tolerances." I.e., variations in position, distance,
opacity, when the whole thing is being put together.
Okay, so #3 is at least under our control. Getting things positioned and put
together consistently just takes some care and practice. But how bad are the
variations in items 1 and 2? Could a simple trimming circuit (say a pot in
series with the LED) be used to get a fairly close min/max match between
several DIYOCs? (Note the new acronym. Remember where you saw it first ;) )
Tim (big variable) Servo
"Imagination is more important than knowledge." - Albert Einstein
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