[sdiy] Front Panel for DIY Synth

[Tom Arnold]

On Fri, Mar 26, 2004 at 03:30:34PM +0100, A.L. wrote:
> i'm looking for some advice on how to make a front panel for a diy 
> synth (or where to have one made).

Easiest :
http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/

a 1U panel for the Oakley TB3031 ( you can download the file off Oakley's
site and see what it looks like ) redone in Black with white lettering is
$54.  Well, I'll be adding 4 more holes to it so probably a couple bucks
more.  Excellent quality, free software to do the layout.  Layout/holes will
be spot-on.  Would I do it again?  Hell yes.

The EFM method:
Front panel printed on 3M labeling material.  This can be done by print
shops.  Large labels are a pain to get aligned.  Looks good. I always worry
about them peeling at the corner.  Have to drill all the holes.  Best method
is find a Rotex punch to use.  One day I will buy a Rotex and be a happy
camper.  Or you can use Greenlee punches for a nice clean no-walking hole,
or you can just drill them starting with a small pilot hole and working your
way up.  I get best results starting with a VERY small pilot hole  ( 1/16"
).  Unibit Step-Bit's are definatly your friend, definatly make life easy
drilling in metal.  Print shops that make these labels ( and the name is
completely escaping me right now ) can print them up to about 20" wide. Use
rack screws with washers when mounting them.  Would I do it again?  Yes. 


My Cheap Method :
Doesnt work for large panels.  Laser/Inkjet printable bumper stickers.  They
arnt thick vinyl, they are actually quite thin.  Once applied to the panel I
shoot them with a little poly spray.  Drill the panel first and before you
apply the sticker carefully wash and then lightly sand the panel.  Looks as
good as the EFM method and is pretty cheap.  Cant cover a whole rack face
tho.  Would I do it again? Yes.

Water Transfer Method :
Hobby shops sell printable water-transfer sheets.  I've tried these two
ways.  Plain and Laquered.  You can either just print on them and slide it
off onto your work, or you can print it then spray it with laquer.  Both
methods were finicky for doing a whole panel at once.  Printing legends only 
would probably be better but they you have to deal with alignment.  There is
also some simular stuff that when you've slid it on you bake it in the oven
to set it.  Havent tried that.  Would I do it again? No.

Rub On Lettering :
Can look really good.  Drill and paint the panel.  Use rub-on lettering to
legend everything.  Spray with laquer when done.  Time intensive.  Would I
do it again? Yes.

Silk Screening :
Any of the above sound like a pain?  Ha!
Most art/craft stores sell Silkscreening kits for about $30.  Make your
layout on transparency plastic.  Cover the screen with emulsion.  Dry it.
Expose it.  Develope it.  Wash it and patch all the holes.  Line it up on
your panel, squeegie the paint across.  Practice on cardboard a few times
first.   Its fairly cheap considering all, and the screen is pretty big so
you can get most of a 19" panel.  Only really makes sense if you wanna try
it ( that'd be me ) or you want to make multiple panels.   Multiple colours
are a pain, but the end result looks very professional.  I think it only
really makes sense when you want to run off a bunch of panels cheaply.  The
screens are reusable too.  Would I do it again?  Yes in the right
circumstance.

ID-Mark :
ID-Mark sheets are aluminum or thick vinyl.  You can either get them made by
a print shop or buy the stuff to do them yourself.  I used this type
material back when it came with really nasty chemicals.  Available in a
bunch of colours.  Has to be coated when you are done.
http://www.horizonsisg.com.  They also have an Inkjet printable aluminum, I
think Harry has played with it.  Might be worth looking into.  If I
remember, 5 sheets of the ID-Mark in 12"x20" will run about $130 plus
whatever you need to process them.  Vinyl is cheaper.  Would I do it again?
Yes, but not as a primary choice.

Metal Photo :
Horizons SIG also sells this stuff.  Its a photo-treated aluminum and
coating process that makes an almost indestructable panel. Seriously, if a
nuke is ever dropped near me I'll cover myself with Metalphoto Panels and be
quite fine.  They have material up to 1/8".  Horizons will send you a
little sample if this sounds interesting.  You'll still need to cut holes
and you'll be doing that *after* the printing is done.  I've tried 3 methods
with this sofar.  Method 1 was cover panel with tape and drill.  Turned out
fine.  ALso used a Rotex punch on one, turned out even better, but the one
that I had high hopes for didnt work and that was plasma cutting.  It
lightly discoloured the finish.  I also didnt care for the edges left on the
plasma cut holes.  Laser cut is better but more expensive.  Have I mentioned
how much I like Rotex Punches?  Would I do it again?  Probably not.  For the
price there are other options.

I've tried some other methods too that escape me right now.  While
assembling prototypes over the years the most common method has been rub-on
lettering but I continue to hunt for the silver bullet...

-- 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------
 - Tom Arnold -       When I was small, I was in love,                  - 
 - Sysabend   -       In love with everything.                          -
 - CareTaker  -       And now there's only you...                       - 
 --------------         -- Thomas Dolby, "Cloudburst At Shingle Street" -