[sdiy] Re: [AH] WANTED: desoldering tips

[elmacaco]

I've been having great luck with the little $10 Radio Shack desoldering
iron.  It has a bulb and a solder tip with a hole for the suction.  After
having trouble with solderbraid I wanted to try it out, and I have been
surprised at how well it works.  It works quicker than solderbraid for me
and helped save my MPC 60's tact switches!

YMMV
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James R. Coplin" <moog at qwest.net>
To: "'/0'" <r3dshift at chartermi.net>; <analogue at hyperreal.org>
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 2:35 PM
Subject: RE: [AH] WANTED: desoldering tips


> That works but not as well, in my experience. I have an army of those
things
> including a monster sucker that's about the size of a horses leg. I still
> find the solder wick works better, faster, requires less heating of the
> part, etc. It is more expensive, for the price of a couple spools of wick
> you could buy a "premium sucker". Your milage may vary.
>
> James R. Coplin
> ***************
> If anyone asks of my whereabouts,
> simply tell them i've gone out the window
> for a spot of tea and am not
> expected back any time soon.
> ***************
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: /0 [mailto:r3dshift at chartermi.net]
> > Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 12:32 PM
> > To: James R. Coplin; analogue at hyperreal.org
> > Subject: Re: [AH] WANTED: desoldering tips
> >
> > or go to a radio shack or likeminded store and get a solder sucker.  you
> > just heat the solder and suck it up!
> > :)
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "James R. Coplin" <moog at qwest.net>
> > To: <analogue at hyperreal.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 11:25 AM
> > Subject: RE: [AH] WANTED: desoldering tips
> >
> >
> > > Get yourself some desoldering wick. It's braided copper with flux.
This
> > > stuff is the greatest thing since sliced bread. I've been redoing my
> > > Memorymoog and I am currently working on the voice cards. There are 6
> > cards
> > > that need to have 5 power connectors and 5 IC sockets removed and
> > replaced.
> > > I've been able to use the wick, reach around to the socket, and pull
it
> > off
> > > with my hands no problem. Leaves the pads clean, fluxed and ready to
> > > reattach. The only hint to remember is that the wick will pull the
> > solder
> > > off the tip of your iron so you will need to re-tin it regularly for
> > best
> > > performance.
> > >
> > > James R. Coplin
> > > ***************
> > > If anyone asks of my whereabouts,
> > > simply tell them i've gone out the window
> > > for a spot of tea and am not
> > > expected back any time soon.
> > > ***************
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Paul Perry [mailto:pfperry at melbpc.org.au]
> > > > Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 4:57 AM
> > > > To: Oliver Hesch
> > > > Cc: analogue at hyperreal.org
> > > > Subject: Re: [AH] WANTED: desoldering tips
> > > >
> > > > At 11:57 AM 8/02/04 +0100, Oliver Hesch wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >to do that i had to change quite a couple of CMOS-chips.
> > > > >i have a good soldering-desoldering station of PACE (MBT).
> > > > >now, it is a considerable pain to desolder chips from 2-layer
> > > > >boards as the chips are connected to the board from the component
> > side
> > > > >and the side below. they are soldered to the two layers logically.
> > > > >
> > > > What I personally do, is to firstly cut all the legs, right at the
> > chip.
> > > > So then you have 16 (or whatever) legs standing there.
> > > > Then I get a stainless steel dental pick (cheap from some USA
surplus
> > > > mailorder).
> > > > And I remove the legs one at a time by melting the solder & picking
> > them
> > > > out
> > > > with the pick.
> > > > So now you have 16 holes in the board, each full of solder.
> > > > And what I do is, go to one & melt the solder, and puish the dental
> > pick
> > > > right in, and leave it there as the solder cools.
> > > > Fortunately, solder doesn't stick to stainless steel, so you can
then
> > > > carefully pull out the pick, and that is one hole finished (with a
bit
> > > > of solder around it). Repeat until all holes OK.
> > > > Then push your new chip in, and you probably don't need more solder,
> > > > just melt what is there.
> > > >
> > > > There are a million other ways to do it, involving suction things,
and
> > > > desoldering braid, but....... this works for me! And, I only have a
> > > > soldering iron (but, a nice one, a Hakko).
> > > >
> > > > paul perry (Frostwave analog fx manufacturer) melbourne australia
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>


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