[sdiy] Help with iron-on PCB art

The Peasant epeasant at telusplanet.net
Sun Nov 9 22:19:13 CET 2003


> When my xfers don't work, it was usually due to the
> copper board not being
> clean enough, and not the heat/iron process.  Make sure
> to clean the
> copper clad board off using brillo (really rub the hell
> out of it, for
> several minutes) and then clean the brillo soap and
> fibers off using
> something like rubbing alcohol.  Make sure to wear gloves
> handling the
> "clean" board, as the oil from your hands will keep the
> traces from
> sticking as well.

I completely agree, using an absolutely clean board is the 
one thing that I have found to be necessary for iron-on 
transfers. You can get away with bending the 
temp/time/pressure rules with almost zero effect, but the 
board *must* be spotless.

> > Then the weirdest thing happen when I etched. 
> Everything looked great, the
> > trace widths are not that small, so that's ok, and when
> I rinsed off the
> > iron-on etch resist, there was nothing underneath - no
> copper.  I only
> > etched for about 10 minutes, slightly heated.  THe
> exact same duration I've
> > always done, yet I've never had this problem.
> >
> > Any help in the balance of the solution vs. heat vs.
> time vs amount of
> > solution would be greatly appreciated.

I always monitor my boards as I etch them, as there are 
many variables that can affect etching time. If you are 
using heat and fresh etchant, things can happen quite 
quickly, and should be watched, not timed. 
 
> I have never gotten double sided to work worth a damn
> using PnPeel.  I'd
> outsource this to someone like Alberta Printed Circuits,
> IMO....it's worth
> the extra money, and their prices for small quanitites
> are very
> reaonsable.
> 
And help support the economy in my home province! ;-)=

Take care,
Doug
______________________
The Electronic Peasant

www.electronicpeasant.com



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