[sdiy] Potentiometer Heights

[harry]

We have two issues here... some shafts are aluminum... some are hollow...
some are hardened steel. Some are Brass...

Do not try a pipe cutter.  One problem is that you can't get close enough
to the
pot anyway.  Problem 2 is if the shaft is not hollow, it will prlly not
work.

I'm using A-B type J pots... they are steel and quite hard... too tough
for a pipe cutter.

H^) harry

cyborgzero at comcast.net wrote:

> I use a handheld battery operated reciprocating saw.
>
> You tend to get more accurate cuts with it, and put a metal saw blade
> on it.
>
> Most of the time, if I am careful, it takes about 10 seconds and no
> edge cleanup..
>
> My panavise works for the job.
>
> To get them accurate, i measure, then  put the vise right at the
> height I want to cut them at.
>
> Tried using bolt cutters, but the edge is hashed too much and needs
> cleaning. Ugh..
>
> Always wondered about using a pipe cutter for it, since they tend to
> make a very nice cut.
>
> Rob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "harry" <harrybissell at prodigy.net>
> To: "Peter Grenader" <petergrenader at mksound.com>
> Cc: "Batz Goodfortune" <batzman at all-electric.com>; "Cynthia Webster"
> <cynthia.webster at gte.net>; "Diy" <synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
> Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 12:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [sdiy] Potentiometer Heights
>
> > Arrgh really ???
> >
> > I always hold the unwanted shaft in the vice... then hacksaw. Then
> there is no
> > stress transmitted to the body.   Just put a pillow on the floor, or
> hold the body
> > 'just' as it lets go.
> >
> > Your method would be necessary if the shaft was slightly too long.
> In that case I
> > look for knobs that could cover up the shaft length error.
> >
> > H^) harry
> >
> > Peter Grenader wrote:
> >
> > > Cyn
> > >
> > > This is a good Batz is suggesting here, but probably out of the
> question for
> > > you now in that (I bet) you are at the tail endof a project rather
> than the
> > > beginning and just want to faceplate mount your knobs without
> having them 3
> > > inches off the surface.
> > >
> > > I've gone through this mess you're going through.  I have a third
> hand/table
> > > vise with rubber stops. Dont wedge it in there too hard or you
> will surely
> > > cause damage to the wiper/coil.   I just snug the pot in there
> held by the
> > > vise at its base on one end and the tip of the shaft at the other.
> You just
> > > start slow and continue with minimal pressure on the saw -let the
> saw find
> > > it's groove and it goes fairly easily.  It doesn't take that long
> at all.
> > > without a vise though it could get ugly.
> > >
> > > It bugs me that this is about the only type of pot shafts you can
> find in
> > > walk-in stores.  Now, try finding 6mm ones...this gets even more
> > > mightmare-on-elm-streetish.
> > >
> > > hope this helps,
> > >
> > > P
> > >
> > > on 7/5/02 10:28 PM, Batz Goodfortune at batzman at all-electric.com
> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Y-ellow Cynthia 'n' all.
> > > >
> > > > At 11:33 AM 7/5/02 -0700, Cynthia Webster wrote:
> > > >> Sounds like the title of a new soap opera
> > > >>
> > > >> Stay tuned for next week's episode of
> > > >>
> > > >> "Potentiometer Heights"
> > > >
> > > > In which Cynthia shows her prowess as a 1337 haxor.
> > > >
> > > >> Anyway, here I am with a hacksaw going-at-it with a big bag of
> > > >> different length pot shafts and wondering if someone has a
> > > >> suggestion for an easier way to deal with this dilemma?
> > > >
> > > > Often, I have circumvented the whole problem by designing
> everything to
> > > > bolt to a sub-panel. The depth of which depends on the length of
> the shaft.
> > > > No cutting at all but some fabricating involved. Though the main
> reason for
> > > > this isn't really the pot-shaft cutting deal. The reason is that
> the pot
> > > > can then bolt to a flange behind the panel. It does not tighten
> on the
> > > > panel and if you've used a heat coated paper panel, this can be
> important
> > > > as the tension of doing up the nut will twist and/or rip the ply
> of the
> > > > panel markings. Not very pretty.
> > > >
> > > > This also allows you to use much smaller knobs. And knobs that
> don't have
> > > > skirts who's only real purpose is to hide the pot-nuts. And
> finally, by
> > > > using a sub panel, you can drill a tiny little hole through
> which the
> > > > securing flange that some pots have can protrude. Thus locking
> them in
> > > > place and preventing the pot from rotating. Even if the pot-nuts
> become lose.
> > > >
> > > > It's not always necessary to make an aluminium sub-panel either.
> You could
> > > > for example, make your PCB with holes in it for the pots to
> mount directly
> > > > to. Some over-sized lands on the solder side will even allow you
> to
> > > > virtually-surface mount, a standard ol' toy-shop-pot to the
> board. (Thankya
> > > > Roman) So in the end you can build your entire circus on one PCB
> and just
> > > > mount the PCB a "Pot-shaft's distance"tm under the main front
> panel.
> > > >
> > > > No wiring. No cutting and the pot's right smack bang in the
> middle of the
> > > > circus it's adjusting.
> > > >
> > > > Hope this helps.
> > > >
> > > > Be absolutely Icebox.
> > > >
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> > > >
> >
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--
Jihad Terrorism Conspiracy New World Order
Revolution Black Helicopters Freedom of
Speech First Amendment Rights: Carnivore Bait
go ahead and READ my e-mail I have nothing to
hide... how about YOU ???