[sdiy] Hard-to-solder "Dick Smith" proto board
Ian Fritz
ijfritz at earthlink.net
Thu Jan 10 16:15:04 CET 2002
Emery paper will leave some grit behind. Not recommended! Nobody mentioned
scouring powder (Comet Cleanser, etc.) This is where I usually start.
(Also, if you mix it with oil into a paste it's pretty good for rust removal.)
Ian
At 07:39 AM 1/9/2002, Scott Gravenhorst wrote:
>Has anyone else experienced this? I started a project
>using "Dick Smith" brand protoboard. I'm not happy
>with the layout of the strips either, but the really
>annoying part is that it doesn't like to take solder.
>I've had the board for a few years, sealed in the plastic
>bag. The copper looks *brand* new, super glossy, like
>polished. With other brands I can solder with 1 or 2
>seconds of contact, this one requires about 4 seconds.
>And the solder doesn't seem to want to flow much. I'm
>thinking there's some wierd coating on it. It's the only
>one I've ever purchased, fortunately.
>
>I'm considering burnishing the board with emery paper. Any
>suggestions before I try that? Or is that the best way?
>
>Doing this stuff is hard enough now that I'm older and
>the eyes aren't as good, but when the solder won't flow,
>it really irks me.
>
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>-- Scott Gravenhorst | LegoManiac / Lego Trains / RIS 1.5
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