[sdiy] plastic front-panels?

[Peter Grenader]

I have an alternative for faceplates which works quite well, that uses Lexan
as well, to wit:

Once you figure out the size of your faceplate, you get the material cut
(wood, plastic, aluminum, steel, whatever).  Then, design a faceplate on
your computer using Illustrator, Coral Draw, Freehand, Word, whatever.  Use
colors - go wild, do whatever you wish.  Then, get a color laser or inkjet
printout of that document, which will be made to scale and form fit to cover
the piece of material you selected as base material.  Make sure you leave
bleeds to it can be easily trimmd to fit.

Now, take the material and the color printout to a graphics place that does
laminating.  Ask them to first laminate your printout to the material, then
laminate a sheet of lexan on top of that.  The secret to it not delaminating
is a tension laminator.  this keeps the stuff on there for good.  If you
attempt to just use a roller and spray mount yourself, it's not going to
last all that long and you will get (ala old Serge stuff), bubbling
faceplates in time.  There is no way around this unless a tension laminator
is incorporated.  It will be stuck down so well that it won't even
delaminate around the edges of drilled holes.  Now try this at home with
something you rolled down yourself - you will see a completely different
effect around the holes and I won't be good!

Drill your holes on your faceplate - you are in business.  total cost (not
including the base material) - should be about $35.

I have done many projects like this.  They end up looking like a million
dollars and the lexan is in fact bullt proof.  One controller bank I did is
still stuck down and pretty after three years. If the graphics place is any
good, they will be able to register the graphics perfectly to the faceplate
material - there is nothing worse than drooping rowes of pots.

I am fortunate in that my work not only has a large scale (60 unch!) 6 color
jet ink printer, it also has a heat tension laminating press of the same
size.  I can knock these out (and have) all day long.

best,

Peter Grenader

on 2/1/02 9:05 PM, harry at harrybissell at prodigy.net wrote:

> You need to determine what the frequency of interest is...
> 
> Low frequeicies are primarily coupled by magnetic fields.  Ferrous
> metals are the best defence... the thicker the better. Mu-metal
> (a nickel cobalt alloy) is the best... see Advance Magnetics for into.
> Its ungodly expensive but the best performer.
> 
> At higher frequencies... the coupling is more capacitive, and any metal
> can stop the coupling, aluminum and copper are both very good.
> 
> higher still... and even the metallic paint might work well.
> 
> I would still use a metal box for any audio gear... preferrably steel... but
> I do most stuff in aluminum without too much trouble.
> 
> H^) harry
> 
> Rob B wrote:
> 
>> How about copper/tin/aluminum tape?
>> 
>> Rob
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "harry" <harrybissell at prodigy.net>
>> To: <mikko.a.helin at nokia.com>
>> Cc: <synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
>> Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 12:21 PM
>> Subject: Re: [sdiy] plastic front-panels?
>> 
>>> The conductive paints might be good at 100MHz and up....
>>> 
>>> H^) harry
>>> 
>>> mikko.a.helin at nokia.com wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Aren't there some conducting paints you could use to paint the inside?
>> Would it be useful for anything?
>>>> -Mikko
>>>> 
>>>>> Grounding may or may not be a problem, depending on how
>>>>> you look at
>>>>> things.  If you are using phone jacks, the plastic might be good.  It
>>>>> would cut down on the potentials for ground loops.  Mechanically, if I
>>>>> remember right, lucite is pretty brittle (or was that
>>>>> lexan?).  Plastic
>>>>> is also a lot more difficult to drill, but it can be done.  If memory
>>>>> serves me right, other list members have done it and will
>>>>> tell you how.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Another neat thing is you should be able to engrave the legend in
>>>>> the panel, and when you light it up, it should be quite visible.
>>>>> Although, I don't know if you want to do that in the front or the
>>>>> back..??  Although, the engraving part could get expensive.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Definately a lot of posiblilities...
>>>>> 
>>>>> -Jim
>>>>> 
>>>>> denshi wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> hi all!
>>>>>> its been a dream of mine for a long time to have a
>>>>>> glowing pink modular.  weird dream huh?
>>>>>> well, i want to make the panels using semi-opaque
>>>>>> lucite, or some similar plastic that is decently
>>>>>> strong, and of course milky pink.
>>>>>> are there any electronic considerations?  grounding,
>>>>>> static?  mechanical considerations?  thanks!
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> seth s. nemec
>>>>>> denshiblocks at yahoo.com
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>>> Do You Yahoo!?
>>>>>> Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!
>>>>>> http://auctions.yahoo.com
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Jihad Terrorism Conspiracy New World Order
>>> Revolution Black Helicopters Freedom of
>>> Speech First Amendment Rights: Carnivore Bait
>>> go ahead and READ my e-mail I have nothing to
>>> hide... how about YOU ???
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
> 
> --
> Jihad Terrorism Conspiracy New World Order
> Revolution Black Helicopters Freedom of
> Speech First Amendment Rights: Carnivore Bait
> go ahead and READ my e-mail I have nothing to
> hide... how about YOU ???
> 
>