DeOxit?

tomg efm3 at mediaone.net
Thu Sep 21 14:56:23 CEST 2000


So you are the one that's responsible for that 200 sq mile
hole in the ozone! Lot's of CFCs Harry. The EPA made
them change a few things but mostly I think it was the
propellant. You can't get the liquid eye-dropper bottle 
anymore ether...at least I haven't seen it.

It may be psycho....Hell! I might be psycho but I don't think 
it works as well as it used to. When I  first started using it, 
it was like magic. I was dragging out every piece of scratchy
equipment we had. BTW I have one can left too that's just 
for my stuff. I remember a lot of  techs bought a case before 
the change, not me though. I don't remember my reasoning...
I was probably broke..;-)

Tom 


> So I'm still using Cramolin... what will happen to me ???
> 
> Two Heads ?  extra Hands ?? Drop Dead ????
> 
> H^) harry
> 
> tomg wrote:
> 
> > DeOxit is Cramolin without the "bad stuff" Moog used this contact
> > cleaner and recommended it for pots trimmers and switches. I use
> > it when I need to. Dry air ( no oilers ) is best because there is no
> > residue but it won't always work. DeOxit does a good job if you
> > need it. Do NOT use WD40 on anything electronic....well maybe
> > spark-plug wires but not your synth!
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > Subject: RE: DeOxit?
> >
> > > >>>My question is - what parts are suitable?  I know it cleans out pots,
> > > > but I'm really hesitant to use anything on sliders or switches... what
> > > > is the "right" way to use this stuff?<<<
> > > >
> > > I have no idea what "deoxit" is composed of, but I'd be v.wary of going
> > > anywhere near the insides of a synth, let alone the front panel or other
> > > cosmetically enhanced area of y'r toys, with anything that smells or looks
> > > like it might be a solvent of some sort. the "ox" bit instantly makes me
> > > worried.
> > >
> > > all manner of switchgear, including pots, reward careful disassembly and
> > > equally careful friction-cleaning. tiny bits of wood are good for scraping
> > > crap off copper contacts.
> > > another caveat is that the propellant-base of some of these supposably inert
> > > electrical contact cleaners can form deposits of it's own and/or be
> > > conductive to some degree.
> > > can you get hold of anything like wd40? or propelled iso-propyl alcohol? but
> > > the most important bit is disassemble the bits you want to clean, so you can
> > > see what you're doing to them and test small areas first. if nothing else,
> > > this then forces you to allow time (while you re-assemble) for any residual
> > > propellant to boil off.
> > >
> > > d.
> > >
> > >
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