Front Panel Issues

Wed Oct 18 16:32:32 CEST 2000

I just used a Brother P-Touch printer with silver tape, on an
clear anodized aluminum panel (sescom.com).  It worked very well.
Of course you can see the label edges if you look real hard...

Funny about that... It just happened to be a Wiard Mini Wave....

H^)  lol.

>From: "Grant Richter" <grichter at execpc.com>
>To: Martin Czech <czech at Micronas.Com>
>CC: synth-diy at node12b53.a2000.nl
>Subject: Re: Front Panel Issues
>Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 11:01:47 -0500
>
> >
> > So what you do is print the front panel design on white paper, cover
> > that with transparent sheet, and then glue that sandwich to the aluminum
> > panel? #8165 is "White Ink Jet Labels".  I hear that a printer can be
> > damaged if it sweeps over the label boundary where it steps up/down to
> > the carrier paper. I.e. the printer head can get stuck. Seems to be
> > nonsense, now.
>
>The sheets are continuos, the label boundary is the edge of the paper.
> >
> > Or do you print on a transparent sheet? The photos look like aluminum...
>
>I some times use metallic label paper, you can also get that in gold and
>other metallic colors. These are also full sheets and work best with laser
>printing. If the metal label is coated with nitrocellulose, you will need 
>to
>wash it off with acetone to get a solid black from the laser printer. But
>leave the nitrocellulose on for inkjet printing. It allows water based inks
>to stick to the metal.
> >
> > I would like to do the same, I even bought a quite expensive ink jet
> > printer for that, but so far the only tranparent stuff I could get is
> > glossy and that is very irritating.
>
>I have never been able to print on a transparency with good results. Just
>use that for laminating.
> >
> > What is the part number for the transparent protection layer you use?
>
>From:
>
>JM Company
>Hasbrouck Heights, NJ 07604
>
>Item #43150 Clear
> >
> >
> > I had a look at http://www.avery.com, they seem to have a German
> > office. Good.
> >
> >
> >
> > m.c.
> >
> > :::X-Unix-From: grichter at execpc.com  Fri Oct 13 23:24:32 2000
> > :::X-BadHeader: Fri Oct 13 23:24:32 2000
> > :::Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 14:28:17 -0500
> > :::Subject: Re: Front Panel Issues
> > :::From: "Grant Richter" <grichter at execpc.com>
> > :::To: Synthmanic at aol.com, efm at xavax.com, synth-diy at node12b53.a2000.nl
> > :::Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
> > :::
> > :::The original Serge series 76 kits used Xerox copies of the artwork 
>affixed
> > :::to the panels by Laminating Sheets.
> > :::
> > :::Here is a simple method. Use a draw program like Corel to layout the 
>front
> > :::panel. Start by drawing the exact size panel and put it on a layer 
>called
> > :::Outline. Use the smallest line size for the outline (hairline).
> > :::
> > :::Then draw the exact size panel components and put them on a layer 
>called
> > :::Parts. Make sure you have a little X in the center of any holes that 
>need
>to
> > :::be drilled. Lasso and group the parts to make them easier to move. 
>Push
>them
> > :::around on the panel until everything fits.
> > :::
> > :::Create another layer called Graphics and add your text labels.
> > :::
> > :::Print out all the layers and trim the sheet on two sides at the 
>outline
> > :::lines. Align these two sides with the panel and center punch all the 
>holes
> > :::on the little X's. Drill the panel and deburr it very well.
> > :::
> > :::Now shut off the parts layer and print the text layer and outline 
>onto a
> > :::full sheet of Avery label paper. 8165 is an Inkjet number but they 
>also
>make
> > :::laser print full sheets.
> > :::
> > :::Burnish a laminating sheet over the label paper and rub out any 
>bubbles, it
> > :::helps to make a U shape with the laminating sheet, drop it in the 
>center
>and
> > :::burnish from the center to the edges. You want to avoid trapped air
>bubbles.
> > :::
> > :::Take an Xacto knife and cut around the panel outline. Remove the 
>label
>paper
> > :::adhesive backing and align two edges to the panel. Stick the label 
>paper to
> > :::the panel and burnish down. Cut out all the holes with an Xacto 
>knife.
> > :::
> > :::This is how most of the panels were done on this page.
> > :::
> > :::http://www.musicsynthesizer.com/DIY/Grant/Borg.html
> > :::
> > :::----------
> > :::>From: Synthmanic at aol.com
> > :::>To: efm at xavax.com, synth-diy at node12b53.a2000.nl
> > :::>Subject: Front Panel Issues
> > :::>Date: Thu, Oct 12, 2000, 5:08 PM
> > :::>
> > :::
> > :::>  I'm curious to know what everybody is using to making their own 
>panels
>and
> > :::> how they are making them.
> > :::>
> > :::> I've been kicking around ideas for a long time and have been 
>seriously
> > :::> considering a screened overlay on an unfinished aluminum panel. The
>overlay
> > :::> would be similar to the one that was used on the Moog Prodigy 
>retrofits
>(I
> > :::> can privately e-mail a scan of it on request). The material, which 
>looks
> > like
> > :::> it's 1/64'' thick, is vinyl or some kind of plastic that's strong 
>and
> > :::> textured. It has an adhesive backing and pop-out holes for the 
>jacks.
>It's
> > :::> like a bumper sticker only much tougher. Is there anybody else
>considering
> > :::> this type of design?
> > :::>
> > :::>  As far as the panels themselves, I am considering the blanks put 
>out by
> > :::> Synthesizers.com (Moog type) because of the ample space provided.
>Frac-racs
> > :::> are okay if you want to use 1/8 inch jacks and the Synthesis 
>Technology
> > :::> panels are expensive and a bit smaller than the Synthesizers.com 
>panels.
>I
> > :::> would prefer unfinished panels if I'm going to use an overlay, then 
>the
> > :::> quality of the finish is not an issue. I dunno, what do you all 
>think?
> > :::>
> > :::> Dave
> > :::>
> > :::>
> >

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