uP developers kit

[Mike Ricos]

Hi Philip. The HC11 seems like a good uP for building a midi knob box.
It has 8 adc's, onchip eprom, several serial interfaces and a
development environment as you described.  The best development kit I
have found is Zorin's ModCon, www.zorinco.com. They also sell a midi
gizmo that comes with midi line drivers and female panel mount midi
jacks. I've had good luck with this company. Regards,

Mike R. 

||| Philip Pilgrim ||| wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I hope to build a midi knob box. I found a local fellow who is well versed in machine coding for the 6500 series of uPs.  (he used Commodore Platform). Can anyone recommend a good system for development that would be a smooth transition? I think newer systems have serial lines and software for coding on the PC and uploading to the uP kit...this will be completely new to him. If I can find an econo CPU that uses similar programming mnemonics it would be appreciated.
> 
> thanks again
> Philip
> 
> Philip Pilgrim                 The Lab
> 5 Evan's Drive              Synth Mods/Repair
> Hammond's Plains        Software
> N.S. Canada                http://www.robotnik.com/the_lab
> B4B 1M8
> 
> mailto:thelab at sprint.ca
> +1.902.835.7844
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Smits, Eduard <esmits.hienfeld at atriserv.nl>
> To: <thelab at sprint.ca>
> Cc: <synth-diy at mailhost.bpa.nl>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 6:30 AM
> Subject: Re: Stongest Plastic Glue
> 
> > Hi Philip,
> >
> > For a lot off plastics chloroform works perfectly. This works as a solvent,
> > aply thin with a brush and combine the parts quickly. Do not press them firm,
> > just combine them. Fix them in place (if possible) and let dry thouroughly.
> > This should give a joint wich is just as strong as the original plastics, the
> > parts are welded together this way. The plastic solvent cements wich Terry
> > mentions are mostly just chloroform, but sometimes ether is better. This is
> > something you have to try out yourself. Plastic modellers use this stuff too.
> > As Terry already mentiones a clean solid joint is absolutely necessary for this
> > to work proparly!
> >
> > Regards, Ed
> >
> > KA4HJH wrote:
> >
> > > >  > -----Original Message-----
> > > >  > From: Buck Buchanan [mailto:voltagecontrolled at home.com]
> > > >  > Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 8:18 AM
> > > >  > To: ||| Philip Pilgrim |||
> > > >  > Cc: synthDIY
> > > >  > Subject: Re: Stongest Plastic Glue
> > > >  >
> > > >  >
> > > >  > Hi Philip,
> > > >  >
> > > >  > Epoxy.  Mix it very well and it should never break.  You can
> > > >  > finish/file/machine it after it dries too.  I'm told it doesn't stick
> > > >  > well to nylon or Teflon parts but I haven't tried this specifically.
> > > >  >
> > > >  > > Can anyone recommend a strong plastic glue that will work
> > > >  > well in such a stressfull area.
> > > >
> > > >If you don't need to perfectly mate two severed surfaces, you can mix into
> > > >your epoxy shredded fiberglass cloth.
> > >
> > > John's right. If the parts don't mate perfectly, you may well NEED
> > > some reinforcement.
> > >
> > > There are plastic solvent cements available (check the hobby shop)
> > > that make very strong welds in and evaporate in seconds but you have
> > > to have a clean, solid joint to start with. And they will mar
> > > exterior finishes.
> > >
> > > Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
> > > "The Mac Doctor"
> > >
> > > ICQ: 45652354
> >