Stongest Plastic Glue

[Smits, Eduard]

Hi Philip,

For a lot off plastics chloroform works perfectly. This works as a solvent,
aply thin with a brush and combine the parts quickly. Do not press them firm,
just combine them. Fix them in place (if possible) and let dry thouroughly.
This should give a joint wich is just as strong as the original plastics, the
parts are welded together this way. The plastic solvent cements wich Terry
mentions are mostly just chloroform, but sometimes ether is better. This is
something you have to try out yourself. Plastic modellers use this stuff too.
As Terry already mentiones a clean solid joint is absolutely necessary for this
to work proparly!

Regards, Ed

KA4HJH wrote:

> >  > -----Original Message-----
> >  > From: Buck Buchanan [mailto:voltagecontrolled at home.com]
> >  > Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 8:18 AM
> >  > To: ||| Philip Pilgrim |||
> >  > Cc: synthDIY
> >  > Subject: Re: Stongest Plastic Glue
> >  >
> >  >
> >  > Hi Philip,
> >  >
> >  > Epoxy.  Mix it very well and it should never break.  You can
> >  > finish/file/machine it after it dries too.  I'm told it doesn't stick
> >  > well to nylon or Teflon parts but I haven't tried this specifically.
> >  >
> >  > > Can anyone recommend a strong plastic glue that will work
> >  > well in such a stressfull area.
> >
> >If you don't need to perfectly mate two severed surfaces, you can mix into
> >your epoxy shredded fiberglass cloth.
>
> John's right. If the parts don't mate perfectly, you may well NEED
> some reinforcement.
>
> There are plastic solvent cements available (check the hobby shop)
> that make very strong welds in and evaporate in seconds but you have
> to have a clean, solid joint to start with. And they will mar
> exterior finishes.
>
> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
> "The Mac Doctor"
>
> ICQ: 45652354