soldering tips/trigger timing

[Jim Patchell]

    If you plan ahead, it is not too much of a problem.  I always start out with
the lowest parts first, generally, resistors.  When I put the leads through the
board, I put a slight bend in them to hold them in.  When enough parts are in,
flip it over and start to solder.  The big problem is dips.  The leads are too
short for a slight bend to keep them in.  Get a big sheet of the black anti
static foam.  Put the dips in, put the foam on top, an then flip the whole thing
over.  Only solder one corner pin first on each dip.  I then pick the board up
and make sure each dip is properly seated by pushing on the chip and heating the
one pin.  For big dips you may have to solder a pin in each corner.  Also, you
will probably burn your fingers alot doing this (I do).

    The best solution is to buy one of the board jiggy things that will do all
of this much better.  Sorry, I can't remember what they are called, I am sure
somebody on this list knows.  But these things are the proper tool for doing
this job.

    Also, if I may, I recomend you look into Kester 331 core solder.  Cleans up
with water, leaves your board squeeky clean.  However, I have some tips on using
the stuff at http://www.silcom.com/~patchell/diytips/diytips.html

    -Jim

Roel Das wrote:

> Just a few more questions on the endwork project.
>
> I just got the PCBs. So now I'm looking for soldering tricks.
> Any cheap way to keep the components on the board while soldering?
>
> There are 2 errors on the board. One by me. And one by the manufactor. But
> it looks quite easy to repair.
> It was quite cheap too: about 28 dollar for 2 small boards (both about 8 x
> 10 cm). Double sided, and plate through holes. No masks however. And I could
> keep the films.
> I don't know what proces they used. No etching. No idea...  8-)
>
> And one question on gates: if you play a new note, the gate retriggers. How
> long should the gate be low between those 2 notes? Any ideas on this?
>
> Thanks
> Roel