Cap labeling/replacement.

[media at mail1.nai.net]

>I am trying to replace a couple of caps in the PS of my Oddy, since the
>ones in the ODDY are oozing badly these days..

Are the cans literally oozing -- like puffed out??  That's not good :(
Maybe they got hit with a reverse voltage.

>OK, first question, the original electrolytics say "250mfd".. Now, I
>always was taught that the convention was that all cap values were
>listed in microfarads, but "250mfd" LOOKS like millifarads...What is it?

I ain't no EE, but I have never heard of no millifarad.  Not that they
don't make some awfully huge caps (I've seen one Farad caps in car stereo
systems when adding an extra alternator just isn't psycho enough :) but
250uF (microfarads) would seem a sensible value for some sort of filter
cap.  A 4700uF between a rectifier and a regulator seems plausible, but a
250,000uF cap??

milli  10-3
micro  10-6
nano   10-9
pico   10-12

> if i put a larger value cap (the original says 250mfd, and the closest
>i could find was 330ufd) could that possible cause a DC offset?

How do you DC offset DC??

>I assume that it could only better the ripple rejection of the PS, but, once
>again, thats textbook talking, and I dont have much faith in it lately!

While I'm not led to believe that changing the value of the caps before the
regulator by a small amount would make much difference, you want to make
sure that it has an equivalent or better voltage rating.

PEACE OUT :)
MARK