more MetalPhoto info

[Stew Benedict]

I'd think the paper cutter trick would work - provided its good and sharp
and the blade is aligned.  It's essentially the same thing as a shear
for sheet metal.  But I can't say for sure as I've never used the stuff
that thin.

Stew

On Wed, 23 Oct 1996 Christopher_List at Sonymusic.Com wrote:

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>      > Well I happened to look at one of the sites today.
>      > What I discovered is that they can do them ON 1/8" aluminum panels.
>      > So why bother with the thinner stuff and hassle with glue when you can
>      > just get them to do the whole faceplate itself?  All you have to do then
>      > is drill the holes, pop the pots and switches in and then bolt it onto
>      your rack.
> 
>      ...yes, I saw this as well. The reasons are;
> 
>      1. Shipping will be easier and cheaper for the thin stuff.
>      2. The versatility - like I mentioned before - of getting a sheet
>   larger or smaller than the plate you want to put it on. Getting a full
>   plate requires more agreement for everyone who chips in because it's hard
>   to add/takeaway parts...
>      3. The stuff comes with a self-adhesive backing that sticks very well
>   to anodized aluminum (yes, I've already called a place and I'm waiting to
>   get a quote back from them). Just peal it off and apply - no muss no fuss
>   no glue...
>      4. 19" x 1/8" rack panels are common for us, but not for everyone
>   else. My experience with silk screening was that the cost for fabrication
>   of panels - small run - custom - was about the same as going down to Sam
>   Ash and buying them - and you can get them for up to half the price if
>   you find some mail-order place like Sweetwater doing a blowout.
>      5. This also gives people the option of doing budget panels made from
>   raw aluminum (not anodized), raw steel, or even plastic.
> 
>      I will get prices for doing it as plates, though. Who knows, maybe the
>   difference is neglegable - in which case it'd be worth it....I'll post
>   prices as soon as I get 'em.
> 
> 
>      > On the issue of color, the company I was looking at,
>      > Schilling's Graphics, can do a variety of things to an etched panel.
>      > One of the samples of MetalPhoto I saw on the web used a gold metal
>   with
>      > black lettering.  Very sharp.  Also less glare.  :)
> 
>      Yeah, I saw that too - it was pretty sharp - looked almost like brass.
>   I, personally, am leaning towards the more "traditional" with a satin
>   finish, black with silver letters. I guess if we can get a decent number
>   of people to go in on it, we'll have to take a vote :).
> 
>      I've already mucked up one attempt at getting something like this
>   together for the ASM-1 (due mainly to the high cost of silkscreening) -
>   but I'd like to give it another go. As you all know, I've got a layout
>   that I think is really rad (cool symbols and dial markings - not just
>   lettering) - so I'll probably be getting some of these made regardless
>   :).
> 
>      [quick aside] Sad thing is, while I was one of the first to get an
>   ASM-1 board, I still haven't built any! This was due mainly to a summer
>   hiatus - but now I'm back in the flow. I just ordered the MAT-02's for
>   the ASM1, just built a Moog filter (finally), and am working on a
>   redesigned version of my 2 channel cv mixer that uses 2024's rather than
>   2164's and uses Juergen's method for 100% panning (long story - deserves
>   another post) BTW, Juergen, the resitor network method works great! I've
>   renounced VCAs with exponential CV response as heretical...
> 
>      One more question for Stew -
>      How hard is it to cut the .005 and .012 thickness stuff - any idea?
>   Will an office papercutter fold / screw it up? If this works as well as
>   it looks, and isn't too expensive, I may get some sheets made to re-do my
>   modular panels - and I'd like to do several panels at a time on 8.5x11
>   sheets and just cut them up...
> 
>      - Chris
> 
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>