Front Panel Marking

Fred Becker mach25 at indy.net
Wed Jul 24 06:36:45 CEST 1996


I found this on a newsgroup and thought it might be of interest:

Source--seeker at indirect.com (Stan Eker)

Earl Kiosterud (earlk at livenet.net) wrote:

:      FRONT PANEL LETTERING

: Anyone have info on good ways to do front panel lettering for electronic
: prototypes and one-time projects?  I've tried:

<snip>

: Laser-printed labels on plain paper, cut out and attached to panel with
: polyurethane under and over the labels.  -- looks promising.  (I'm waiting for
: the polyurethane to dry right now).

I use laser-printed (or color bubble-jet for special effects) stuff done on
the A-sized full sheet label stock, then cover it with adhesive vinyl or
acetate (your local art supply shop should have it).  It's quicker than
spray urethane and has better durability.

The boxes of full sheet label stock work easier than paper + adhesive,
although they cost a d at mn lot (roughly $25 per box of 50-100 sheets).
Now, if I could only find a cheap source for legal sized full sheet
label stock, I'd be happier for the few projects that 11" won't fit.
The pre-adhesive label stock has better adhesion than rubber cement or
other post applied adhesives, and won't dissolve bubblejet ink.

I pre-trim the edges of the paper to the final size and CAREFULLY lay the
label against the front panel (you only get one shot at it) and then rub
it down firmly to remove any bubbles.  Then I lay the oversized adhesive
acetate on top of the paper label stock, and trim the edges with an X-acto
or single-edge razor blade.

Finally, I use some brass tubes (round and rectangular) from the hobby shop
to punch out the holes.  The inside edges of the tubes were carefully filed
to work as somewhat decent punches, but they don't last too long.  A couple
of quick taps with a wood mallet and Viola! you're done.  If you're bright,
you already have circles printed on the label so you can get the holes OK.

If you've undersized the paper label by a small amount (.050-.1") then the
final product is nearly waterproof and looks almost professional.  No muss
or fuss with the urethane dissolving bubblejet ink or messing up the toner,
and you're done in just minutes.  Give it a try... and thank the nameless
person that suggested it to me years ago.




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