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GX16 was the standard for lighting control voltages to the dimming racks before DMX appeared. Very rugged and excellent choice. Had the occasional wire break inside the connector due to
<s>bad</s> roadie level handling, but very rare.</div>
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<b>From:</b> Synth-diy <synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org> on behalf of cheater cheater via Synth-diy <synth-diy@synth-diy.org><br>
<b>Sent:</b> 14 July 2026 13:03<br>
<b>To:</b> David Huss <dh@atoav.com><br>
<b>Cc:</b> synth-diy@synth-diy.org <synth-diy@synth-diy.org><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [sdiy] Converting rack mount to DC input?</div>
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<div style="font-size: 11pt;">Hmm, GX16 is interesting, thank you! Let me see if I can find one with<br>
8 pins easily - that's the minimum that I need (see earlier emails<br>
why: to either supply external DC (+17, -17, 0, 48) or loop back the<br>
internal PSU (half the pins would carry the internal psu's voltages))<br>
<br>
That's actually pretty cool because those are small and allow a<br>
circular hole and are easily panel mounted. Thanks, great idea!<br>
<br>
On Mon, Jul 13, 2026 at 10:19 PM David Huss via Synth-diy<br>
<synth-diy@synth-diy.org> wrote:<br>
><br>
> Ethernet has a PoE (Power-over-Ethernet) standard and in its maximum<br>
> PoE++ variant Type 4 switches can supply up to 100 Watts over one<br>
> ethernet port.<br>
><br>
> HOWEVER: PoE similar to USB-C PD (Power Delivery) negotiates this power<br>
> delivery with the device attached to it and also has some measures to<br>
> detect faulty connections/cables. A self-baked solution may fail<br>
> spectacularily (and consider what happens if someone plugs your power<br>
> supply into an actual network port. Professional networking equipment<br>
> can easily cost mor than most peoples cars are worth..<br>
><br>
> For this type of DC connection there are dedicated connectors and<br>
> cables. The price ranges and features vary wildly, but a good and cheap<br>
> solution that is tough enough for live-gig is the GX16 5-pin connector,<br>
> you can get a pack of 5 plugs AND jacks (including a shitty<br>
> screwdriver!) for 9 Euros on Amazon. The plug has a thread so it can be<br>
> locked and it is not too hard to solder.<br>
><br>
> This type of plug has sometimes also be used in mixer power supplies<br>
> that work with outboard power supplies with exactly the requirements you<br>
> have, so it has been done before as well.<br>
><br>
> Cheers,<br>
> David<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> On 2026-07-13 21:24, cheater cheater via Synth-diy wrote:<br>
> > A little more to qualify my question, it's easier to find panel mount<br>
> > hardware for those, can just use a keystone plug, and they take up<br>
> > less space, so easier to fit on the back of a 1U device.<br>
> ><br>
> > On Mon, Jul 13, 2026 at 9:13 PM cheater cheater<br>
> > <cheater00social@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
> >><br>
> >> Another question - how is everyone feeling about rj-45 as a power<br>
> >> plug? carrying up to 800 mA. I've seen threads where people say<br>
> >> they've been putting 1A through those, per pin. Thanks.<br>
> >><br>
> >> <a href="https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/rj12-rj45-rj50-max-current-per-pin/" data-auth="NotApplicable" id="OWA6f012c87-ae64-1220-c003-eeda200309b6" class="OWAAutoLink">
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/rj12-rj45-rj50-max-current-per-pin/</a><br>
> >><br>
> >> <a href="https://groups.google.com/g/sci.electronics.design/c/TPGrRTJjReA?pli=1" data-auth="NotApplicable" id="OWAd1f3d3bb-8697-b1f8-917a-20b086cead3d" class="OWAAutoLink">
https://groups.google.com/g/sci.electronics.design/c/TPGrRTJjReA?pli=1</a><br>
> >><br>
> >><br>
> >> On Mon, Jul 13, 2026 at 5:09 PM cheater cheater<br>
> >> <cheater00social@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
> >>><br>
> >>> Someone off-list made some comments, and here's what came out of it:<br>
> >>><br>
> >>> 1. All my devices use balanced audio<br>
> >>> 2. The rack items actually tie together their grounds by using rack<br>
> >>> screws and the rack rail<br>
> >>> 3. I don't know if the rack devices have isolated audio grounds, but<br>
> >>> they're almost fully analogue, except for stuff like LED bar graphs<br>
> >>> and on-off status LEDs for functions<br>
> >>><br>
> >>> On Mon, Jul 13, 2026 at 4:34 PM cheater cheater<br>
> >>> <cheater00social@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> So a person on another forum mentioned that converting the devices to<br>
> >>>> DC input could create ground loops.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> As a reminder, I would be creating a "DC Bus" that carries +18, -18,<br>
> >>>> 0V, and +48V, and I would wire it in a daisy-chain configuration going<br>
> >>>> from unit to unit. All of those units are in one rack on top of each<br>
> >>>> other.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> Here's what they said:<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>>> If you're intending to run them all off a single raw supply, that could<br>
> >>>>> introduce ground loops. The safest would be a bunch of small<br>
> >>>>> transformers, or one with multiple secondaries. Hammond 229 are<br>
> >>>>> small low profile transformers that could fit in a 1U cabinet.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> So I've been thinking about this since they mentioned ground loops.<br>
> >>>> Here's what I think.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> Currently all those rack devices already use a three-prong IEC C14<br>
> >>>> receptacle, with the earth wire connected to the chassis.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> Instead of the chassis grounding point being connected via the C14<br>
> >>>> receptacle, and through a mains cable, to mains earth, it would now be<br>
> >>>> connected via my DC bus cable, which would have an earth conductor as<br>
> >>>> well.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> So in terms of ground loops, not much changes.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> However, given that we're talking about LOOPS, the area of the ground<br>
> >>>> loop would be important as well.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> Currently each rack has a cable going to a power strip.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> However, with my DC bus, I would be daisy chaining it, so the bus goes<br>
> >>>> to the bottom rack mount device, there's a plug there, then from that<br>
> >>>> plug there's a short cable going 1U above it, and so on.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> That would create an extremely small area for the devices to create<br>
> >>>> ground loops.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> I could (and maybe should) additionally put an earthed shield around<br>
> >>>> these wires, in order to shield them from EMI.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> So in total, either nothing changes regarding ground loops, or it's<br>
> >>>> purely improved compared to the current situation.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> I would be interested in everyone's thoughts on this matter.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> Thanks.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> On Fri, Jul 10, 2026 at 6:03 PM cheater cheater<br>
> >>>> <cheater00social@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
> >>>>><br>
> >>>>> there's one that's particularly noisy, but there are others that are a<br>
> >>>>> little noisy too, and it adds up. plus the heat just makes the room<br>
> >>>>> uncomfortable to be in. I've gone to great lengths to move all heat<br>
> >>>>> and noise generating equipment out of my day room, including moving<br>
> >>>>> the pcs to another place and connecting everything via fiber optics.<br>
> >>>>> so having 80W less heating my head will be an improvement once more.<br>
> >>>>><br>
> >>>>> On Fri, Jul 10, 2026 at 5:58 PM el macaco <elmacaco@hotmail.com> wrote:<br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>> Is the noisey transformer just one unit? Would a torroidial transformer have less physical noise?<br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>> Or if it is vibration related maybe mounting it with rubber washers and making the electrical contact with wires?<br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>> Or move the units away from where the mic can pick up the noise?<br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>> Not my area of expertise, just wondering if there may be a simpler solition.<br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>> Ed<br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>> Get Outlook for iOS<br>
> >>>>>> ________________________________<br>
> >>>>>> From: Synth-diy <synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org> on behalf of Ben Stuyts via Synth-diy <synth-diy@synth-diy.org><br>
> >>>>>> Sent: Thursday, 09 July 2026 17:39:07<br>
> >>>>>> To: cheater cheater <cheater00social@gmail.com><br>
> >>>>>> Cc: synth-diy <synth-diy@synth-diy.org><br>
> >>>>>> Subject: Re: [sdiy] Converting rack mount to DC input?<br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>> You could use both rails, i.e. connect the relay coil between the + and - supply. Not + and gnd. If you want anything more fancy you should build some sort of power-good circuit. But that applies to your homebrew connector solution too.<br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>> Just look at any general purpose or small power relays from e.g. Panasonic, Omron, TE. They usually have an endurance of millions of cycles. A quick search on digikey shows lots of options, starting at a few euro’s.<br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>> Ben<br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>> On 9 Jul 2026, at 18:23, cheater cheater <cheater00social@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
> >>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>> Thanks. A few questions:<br>
> >>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>> What if only some of the rails are connected, but not the one used for<br>
> >>>>>>> steering the relay (a fault)?<br>
> >>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>> Relays are kind of expensive, how much do you think that could end up costing?<br>
> >>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>> If they don't get cycled a lot at all, wouldn't they end up getting stuck?<br>
> >>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>> On Thu, Jul 9, 2026 at 5:57 PM Ben Stuyts <ben@stuyts.nl> wrote:<br>
> >>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>> You could use an internal relay for the switch-over. If there is power on the DC connector -> switch over. Otherwise keep the AC rectifier connected.<br>
> >>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>> Ben<br>
> >>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>> On 9 Jul 2026, at 16:06, cheater cheater <cheater00social@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
> >>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>> In order to provide the bridging functionality it has to have at least 8 pins.<br>
> >>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>> On Thu, Jul 9, 2026 at 1:41 PM Ben Stuyts <ben@stuyts.nl> wrote:<br>
> >>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>> Perhaps a 4 or 5 pin XLR connector is an option? They are not that expensive, and lots of ready-made cables are available.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>> Ben<br>
> >>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> On 9 Jul 2026, at 10:18, cheater cheater via Synth-diy <synth-diy@synth-diy.org> wrote:<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> One way to have DC input, but retain the capability of using the<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> internal power supply, is to have a 4P2T switch for configuration.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> It seems that 4P2T switches are super expensive, especially if they're<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> supposed to withstand, say, 1A.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> So I started looking around. TLDR: classic pcie 8-pin power connectors<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> are probably the best, and also the cheapest.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> My first thought was to look at PCIE x1 slots. The cheapest advanced<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> connector on earth, for 0.4 Euro at unit price, you get a connector<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> that handles 1.1A per pin as per eg this document, page 6, 4.4<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> <a href="https://cdn.amphenol-cs.com/media/wysiwyg/files/documentation/gs-12-233.pdf" data-auth="NotApplicable" id="OWAb9394871-5c9e-404a-43c4-f0d638a28668" class="OWAAutoLink">
https://cdn.amphenol-cs.com/media/wysiwyg/files/documentation/gs-12-233.pdf</a><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> 4.4 CONTACT CURRENT RATING<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> 1.1 amp per contact minimum per EIA-364—70, method 2 and PCI Express Connector High Speed Electrical Test Procedure. The temperature rise shall not exceed 30 degree C. Ambient condition is still air at 25°C.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> The connector has 36 pins, so while I don't think it would handle 36A,<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> I'm sure it would handle something like 2A, especially if you share<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> pins. You can even leave pins empty to prevent shorts during<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> insertion.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> You could put the connector out the back, and either insert a plug-in<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> "card" (really just a small edge connector with wires soldered on)<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> that provides DC, or a pass-through "card" that shorts some pins<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> together to carry power from the internal power supply. And now<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> instead of $20-30 per unit, this costs $1 per unit. My main question<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> is how I would fix the connector, but maybe a simple screw hole in the<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> connector that mates with a threaded hole in the case could do the<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> trick.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> A pcie x1 port is 25mm long, so it can fit upright in the back of a 1U<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> rack unit, which is 45mm, so it doesn't take up much space either.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> The cheapest one that can be found at Mouser currently and can be<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> bought in low volumes is roughly 0.4 Euro.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> <a href="https://www.mouser.at/ProductDetail/Amphenol-FCI/10018783-10200TLF?qs=V%252BXmToedwojeZUI4fPwmPA%3D%3D" data-auth="NotApplicable" id="OWA176e7d11-d5e6-331d-50ee-eeb4edabd5c5" class="OWAAutoLink">
https://www.mouser.at/ProductDetail/Amphenol-FCI/10018783-10200TLF?qs=V%252BXmToedwojeZUI4fPwmPA%3D%3D</a><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Qty. Unit Price Ext. Price<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> 1 € 0,439 € 0,44<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> 10 € 0,372 € 3,72<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> 25 € 0,332 € 8,30<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> 100 € 0,316 € 31,60<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> By making the connector require a dummy plug to connect the internal<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> power supply into the circuit, it makes it impossible to connect both<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> DC power and mains AC, so that makes the design intrinsically safe<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> without using switches.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Alternatively to a PCIE connector I could use some panel mount plug<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> with 8 pins, have 4 pins for DC input, and have the other 4 pins carry<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> power from the internal power supply, and similarly use a shorting<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> plug to use the internal power supply.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Circular DIN connectors start at about 8 Euro per pair of socket and plug.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Circular metric aren't better.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> MIL Spec connectors seem to be cheaper. But the mouser search sucks,<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> so I can't find them by number of pins.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> PCIE 8-pin power connectors are real, real cheap - 10 cents a piece.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> They're latching (no need for screws and stuff). There doesn't seem to<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> be a panel mount version, but one could mount a through-hole connector<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> to a pcb, and have the pcb have screw holes for mounting to the rear<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> panel. They handle high power - 150W meaning 3A per pin (half the pins<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> are return pins). Seems like a winner to me. They're also tiny so they<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> will easily fit in the back of a 1U unit even vertically. The biggest<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> pain here might be making the rectangular hole and having it look any<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> good. might be a case for custom die, maybe a small steel job that<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> uses two bolts to screw together the two cutting parts through the<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> sheet metal.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> "Pin and socket" connectors are the same kind of thing, just not<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> specifically PCIE 8-pin. Still cheap at roughly 20 cents a piece...<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> useful alternative if more than 4 rails are necessary.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> D-sub connectors carry up to 3A... and are very cheap and can do panel<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> mount of some sort. But I'll be damned if I use one of those cursed<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> things for power.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Automotive connectors seem inexpensive too, but I haven't really<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> looked into them much other than a quick parametric search.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> I wonder what everyone thinks of this.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> On Tue, Jul 7, 2026 at 6:39 AM cheater cheater<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>> <cheater00social@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> Don't you think this may have had something to do with you<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> distributing AC power, rather than DC with 0V potential?<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2026 at 11:33 PM Mattias Rickardsson <mr@analogue.org> wrote:<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Den lör 4 juli 2026 14:23Florian Anwander via Synth-diy <synth-diy@synth-diy.org> skrev:<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Maybe, it's a stupid thought, but...: could it be that a device relies on beeing galvanical separated from other devices. I this case the common supply might clash with the devices concept.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> This reminds me of a somewhat similar issue I had many years ago:<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> I wanted a Korg MS-20 and a Korg KR-55 to share one external power puck. (Swedish-sold old Korgs had a big external power transformer to step down from 220 V AC to 16 V AC, which is then what the instrument then accepts via a plug with 2 flat
prongs that doesn't seem roadworthy with European electrical standards.)<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> So I made a short splitter Y cable on the 16 V AC side and attached both instruments and turned them on. But then I connected an audio cable between them (or audio cables from both units to the same mixer) and I had a blown fuse! It was apparently
not okay to connect those two grounds together when running off the same AC supply.<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> /mr<br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> ________________________________________________________<br>
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> >>>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>>><br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>><br>
> >>>>>> ________________________________________________________<br>
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