<DIV>If your project is worth it, it would be well worth seeing what a local sheet metal work factory will charge for a silkscreened frontpanel would cost- I think that you would be surprised just how cost effective it could be- do your design with Illustrator, get a positive transparency produced from a reprographics house from your software, and you are away!</DIV>
<DIV>Ken<BR><BR><B><I>Michael Boracci <mboracci@nfpcomputer.com></I></B> wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">Hello Everyone,<BR>It may be possible to anodize at home. I am sure that a suitable resist<BR>could be applied prior to the dyeing process to create the legend. Either<BR>positive or negative.<BR><BR>http://www.caswellplating.com/index.html<BR><BR>- MB<BR><BR><BR><BR>-----Original Message-----<BR>From: owner-synth-diy@dropmix.xs4all.nl<BR>[mailto:owner-synth-diy@dropmix.xs4all.nl]On Behalf Of Raymond Wilson<BR>Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 8:41 AM<BR>To: synth-diy@dropmix.xs4all.nl<BR>Subject: RE: [sdiy] custom faceplates etc...<BR><BR><BR>Hi All<BR><BR>On Faceplates. I am the penultimate lazy person when it comes to faceplates<BR>as you can see by looking at any of my blurry synth photos but... I have<BR>come up with an idea. I tried the blue sheets sold by Circuit Specialists<BR>and All Electronics that you print your pattern on as a positive and then,<BR>believe it or n!
ot, iron
on to a circuit board. Well anyway it actually works<BR>and you get good resolution and 5 mil line widths. Well I etched it and then<BR>I wanted to remove the resist. I thought a little alcohol would do..<BR>nothing. OK then acetone.. scrubbing steel wool, sand blasting... (OK I<BR>exagerate) but anyway it sticks really well. So next I'm going to try to<BR>iron it on to an aluminum faceplate. If it works BINGO I will start to make<BR>cool looking faceplates. I'll let you know how it comes out and even post a<BR>blurry photo of it when I'm done.<BR><BR>I used to have the whole silk screening set up including a vacuum frame and<BR>arc lamp for developing "Blue Poly" masking material. But even then you need<BR>to use an epoxy ink if you want the markings to stay put for a long time and<BR>it is a pain when all you want is one plate. So... thats why one plate costs<BR>so much. After the first one, screening more takes about 10 seconds each.<BR><BR>Cheers<BR><BR>Ray<BR><BR>-----!
Original
Message-----<BR>From: Peter Grenader [mailto:peter@buzzclick-music.com]<BR>Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2003 11:54 PM<BR>To: Craig Critchley; synth-diy@dropmix.xs4all.nl<BR>Subject: Re: [sdiy] custom faceplates etc...<BR><BR><BR>Yeah, the aluminum shows through and yeah, it does look white even when<BR>looking at it which is just what the doctor ordered as this particular<BR>Milton was for a Wiard owner.<BR><BR>I much prefer these permanent marking methods (laser, photo-anodizing) over<BR>silkscreening. My one attempt at screening was disastrous. It cost me a<BR>bloody fortune and was all falling off within a month.<BR><BR>If I were ever to go into the synth building biz, I would commit myself..NO!<BR><BR>I would go with these permanent marking methods for the production units .<BR>Serge, Modcan and Cynthia gots the right idea. Life is too short to have<BR>units returned for bad markings or worse, NOT returned and out there looking<BR>like crap.<BR><BR>Peter<BR><BR><BR>Craig
Critchley wrote:<BR><BR>> That does look nice.<BR>><BR>> Does the lettering come out aluminum-colored? It looks white in the<BR>picture,<BR>> but I was assuming the laser just zaps off the anodization.<BR>><BR>> ...Craig<BR>><BR>> ----- Original Message -----<BR>> From: "Peter Grenader" <PETER@BUZZCLICK-MUSIC.COM><BR>> To: "Craig Critchley" <CRAIGC@NWLINK.COM>; "James Patchell"<BR>> <PATCHELL@COX.NET>; "James R. Coplin" <MOOG@QWEST.NET>;<BR>> <SYNTH-DIY@DROPMIX.XS4ALL.NL><BR>> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2003 9:42 PM<BR>> Subject: Re: [sdiy] custom faceplates etc...<BR>><BR>><BR>>> Flawlessly. I have uploaded a picture. Unfortunately, it's a little<BR>soft<BR>>> (the picture, not the graphics) as you can see by the blurred start/stop<BR>>> buttons - but I'm sure you can get the idea. This is laser etching of a<BR>>> blue anodized aluminum panel. If you run your finger over the graphics,<BR>> you<BR>&!
gt;>
can't even feel them.<BR>>><BR>>> here ya go:<BR>>><BR>>> http://www.buzzclick-music.com/laser_milton.jpg<BR>>><BR>>><BR>>><BR>>><BR>>>> How did the laser engraving come out? I've been thinking of canvassing<BR>> the<BR>>>> local engraving outfits to see if any of them will do that for me at a<BR>>>> reasonable price. Has anybody tried having a painted panel laser-marked?<BR>>>><BR>>>> ...Craig<BR>>>><BR>>>> ----- Original Message -----<BR>>>> From: "Peter Grenader" <PETER@BUZZCLICK-MUSIC.COM><BR>>>> To: "James Patchell" <PATCHELL@COX.NET>; "James R. Coplin"<BR>> <MOOG@QWEST.NET>;<BR>>>> <SYNTH-DIY@DROPMIX.XS4ALL.NL><BR>>>> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2003 6:32 PM<BR>>>> Subject: Re: [sdiy] custom faceplates etc...<BR>>>><BR>>>><BR>>>>> I just got a .062 17 x 7 inch aluminum panel cut !
at one
place<BR>> (Industrial<BR>>>>> Metal, Inc) brushed finished at a second (Metalcratfers Polishing), and<BR>>>> blue<BR>>>>> anodized and laser etched at a third place (K&L Plating) and the total<BR>> ran<BR>>>> a<BR>>>>> little bit over $180 for the one piece. The only variable cost was the<BR>>>> of<BR>>>>> panel meterial itself. The finishing, plating and engraving were set<BR>> per<BR>>>>> job costs. All three of those places are in Burbank, CA. K&L does not<BR>>>> speak<BR>>>>> Mac, but they use Correl Draw ver. 10 and that can deal with PDFs from<BR>> a<BR>>>>> Mac.<BR>>>>><BR>>>>> This price is with NO HOLES however.<BR>>>>><BR>>>>> For straight spot anodized graphics via photo sensitive aluminum, I use<BR>>>>> Photo-graphics at:<BR>>>>><BR>>>>>
Photo-Graphics Co., Inc.<BR>>>>> 5100C Martha Truman Rd.<BR>>>>> Grandview, MO 64030<BR>>>>> (816)761-3333 ph<BR>>>>> (816)761-3032 fax<BR>>>>><BR>>>>> A single .062 panel, 24 x 12 inch, cut perfectly into as many pieces<BR>> as<BR>>>> you<BR>>>>> can fit, brush or satin finished, black anodized graphics, no holes:<BR>> $172<BR>>>>> plus the cost of film. If you want them to do the film from a file,<BR>> add<BR>>>>> $60. They speak Mac and PC. VERY reliable ten day turnaround once they<BR>> get<BR>>>>> the film or file. Add 50% for a three day rush. The can only anodize<BR>>>> black.<BR>>>>> They will do drilling, but on the only thing I had them quote (Milton)<BR>>>> was<BR>>>>> expensive. But that has what - 45 trillion holes or something - or at<BR>>>> least<BR>>>>> it s!
eems it
when you drill one.<BR>>>>><BR>>>>> wrist still hurts...<BR>>>>><BR>>>>> hope this helps,<BR>>>>><BR>>>>> Peter<BR>>>>><BR>>>><BR>>><BR>><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>____________________________________________________________<BR>Free 20MB Web Site Hosting and Personalized E-mail Service!<BR>Get It Now At Doteasy.com http://www.doteasy.com/et/</BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>http://www.macbethstudiosystems.com<br>Home of the M3X Analogue synthesizer...<p><hr size=1><font face="Arial" size="2">Want to chat instantly with your online friends? <a href="http://uk.rd.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_messenger/*http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/"><b>Get the FREE Yahoo!
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