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<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=480391320-18072003>I
would recommend a good set of non-magnetizable and solder resistant tweezers
(ceramic if you can afford them), either a magnifier hood (~$5) with good
lighting or lighted lamp/magnifier ($60-$120)), a good soldering iron, as fine
pitch solder as you can afford (0.020" is cheap, 0.015" and 0.010" is expensive
but better), lots of solder wick both narrow and wide and a lot of round
wood tooth picks.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=480391320-18072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=480391320-18072003>Read
the data sheets on the solder you use. I use both Kester water solible and no
clean. The tempature makes a big difference.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=480391320-18072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=480391320-18072003>Having
the finer solder gives you better control how much solder you
use.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=480391320-18072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=480391320-18072003>Once I
place a component on the board with the tweezers I usually hold it down with a
tooth pick tool I've made to solder it. I clip the sharp point off the tooth
pick with a pair of dykes and flatten the tip by squeezing it with my needle
nose pliers.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=480391320-18072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=480391320-18072003>I
usually tack down a bunch of parts and then come back and solder them properly.
When tacking them solder the ends that are further from other solder points. You
want the thermal isolation so you don't unsolder other components which are
thermally coupled. Remember also that those little resistors are on ceramic
subsrates so they conduct heat also which can unsolder the other side of the
part. So keep the iron on the joint as short as possible.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=480391320-18072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=480391320-18072003>Some
parts are very sensitive to heat. Only parts that I've had major problems with
are SMT metal film caps. A number of them are made out of plastic and can melt.
I don't even bother if I have to resolder one of these, I just use a new
one.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=480391320-18072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=480391320-18072003>For
myself I never go below 0805 parts and if the part is going to carry any current
at all I'll use 1206 size. SOIC 8, 14, 16 sized parts are pretty easy to deal
with.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=480391320-18072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=480391320-18072003>Have
plent of solder wick handy and some flux. I use the narrow stuff for clean up
and the wider stuff for removing parts. If I'm removing parts I also use a
higher temp and wider tip on the soldering iron.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=480391320-18072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=480391320-18072003>Like
Toby said a dental pick is good to for cleaning and to wiggle pins for checking
joints.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=480391320-18072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=480391320-18072003>Hope
this helps.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=480391320-18072003>Jay</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=480391320-18072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>
owner-synth-diy@dropmix.xs4all.nl
[mailto:owner-synth-diy@dropmix.xs4all.nl]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Bert
Schiettecatte<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, July 18, 2003 12:14 PM<BR><B>To:</B>
synth-diy@dropmix.xs4all.nl<BR><B>Subject:</B> [sdiy] smt placement and
soldering..<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV class=Section1>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Hi
all,<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN lang=EN-GB
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB">I’m
thinking about building a board with a lot of surface mount stuff, but I’m not
sure how to do it without messing it up. I have a decent soldering iron (<SPAN
class=SpellE><SPAN class=GramE>weller</SPAN></SPAN> ws80) and very sharp small
tips … I was thinking about investing in a manual pick and place but maybe
that’s overkill. Anyone have any references on how to do surface mount
prototypes without messing it up?<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN lang=EN-GB
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN lang=EN-GB
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB">Thanks,<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN lang=EN-GB
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB">bert<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV><BR>
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