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<TITLE>RE: [sdiy] Pro-One membrane keyboard</TITLE>
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<P><FONT SIZE=2>try:</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2><A HREF="http://www.sandman.com/rubberb.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.sandman.com/rubberb.html</A></FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2><A HREF="http://www.caig.com/new.htm#12" TARGET="_blank">http://www.caig.com/new.htm#12</A></FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2><A HREF="http://www.chemtronics.com/catalog/catalog.cgi?action=list_products&category=7" TARGET="_blank">http://www.chemtronics.com/catalog/catalog.cgi?action=list_products&category=7</A> (cw2605)</FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=2>I've used the chemtronics kit and it seems to have worked on memorymoogs.</FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=2>Barry</FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=2>-----Original Message-----</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>From: Grant Richter [<A HREF="mailto:grichter@asapnet.net">mailto:grichter@asapnet.net</A>]</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 9:27 AM</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>To: greg montalbano; synth-diy@dropmix.xs4all.nl</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>Subject: Re: [sdiy] Pro-One membrane keyboard</FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=2>The Korg Poly 6 and others have this "resistive elastometer" design.</FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=2>It is no big deal.</FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=2>The problem is oxygen forms a non-conductive layer of oxides on top of the</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>carbon impregnated plastic. It can be removed by mechanical means</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>(scrapping, sanding). The lay is only 0.001" thick so not much scrapping or</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>sanding is needed. Oxidized plastic is shiny, where as conductive plastic</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>has a matte finish.</FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=2>I use 1 or 2 strokes of 600 grain wet or dry paper to break the oxide</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>barrier and restore a matte finish which is conductive. Clean with isopropyl</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>alcohol after sanding.</FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=2>Clean the PC contact with alcohol also but do not abrade, they will</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>variously have gold, tin or carbon coating. But in my experience, the</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>problem is with the contact on the pad not the PC board.</FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=2>> From: greg montalbano <greg.montalbano@ucop.edu></FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 08:04:50 -0700</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> To: synth-diy@dropmix.xs4all.nl</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> Subject: [sdiy] Pro-One membrane keyboard</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> Over the years, I've performed service &/or modifications on several SCI</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> Pro-Ones, but the one I'm working on currently is the first I've ever seen</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> with the</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> infamous membrane keyboard. There are problems with intermittent key</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> response, but this thing looks so cheesy from the outside, I'm hesitant to</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> take it apart. Can anybody who's had experience with these give me some</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> advice? Is it worth the trouble to get inside? Is there any way to repair</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> those sheet-plastic circuit traces?</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> --wouldn't normally be so timid, but it's not my machine; I'm always more</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> cautious with other people's equipment than I am with my own (if I blow up</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> my own, that just gives me an excuse to buy NEW stuff).</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> ~G</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> "The music business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> hallway where thieves and pimps run free, and good men die like dogs.</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> There's also a negative side." - Dr. Hunter S. Thompson</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> </FONT>
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