[sdiy] SMD soldering technique
cheater00 at gmail.com
Fri Mar 24 01:25:21 CET 2017
Thanks, I'll check out that flux.
So you don't use any flux for the smaller parts? Does that work well at all?
On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 17:31 Vladimir Pantelic, <vladoman at gmail.com> wrote:
> congrats of going SMD, but I have to say I find your technique overly
> what I do for 0603/0805 and SOT/SO parts:
> 1) apply solder (0.35mm, lead free Felder ISOCORE, 3.5% flux, no clean)
> to one pad, or diagonal pads if a larger IC
> 2) pick part with tweezers, reheat the pad with the solder and place the
> 3) solder the other pad(s)
> 4) done.
> for smaller ICs like TSSOP I add some Edsyn FL22 flux to the pads, then
> solder them with the same 0.35mm solder and tip as above, using a $200
> stereo microscope (Amscope SE 400-Z, 10X)
> On 23.03.2017 09:00, cheater00 cheater00 wrote:
> > Hi,
> > I have recently bought an SMD learning kit to try out some techniques.
> > I've had some really good results that were stunning for a person who
> > tried real SMD soldering for the first time, so I thought I'd share
> > what I did and what I used.
> > I got one that looks like this, but I think I got mine on Amazon:
> > The 1206 were easy, as were the 0805 and 0603. Too bad they didn't
> > have smaller ones. I didn't have to use a microscope but I wear
> > contact lenses so my vision is OK. Good lighting was crucial (see by
> > the end of the email), as my eyes couldn't resolve the detail without
> > it. With the light the work was really comfortable.
> > I've used my Hakko-clone soldering station Aoyue Int2903 with this
> > Hakko-clone T12 tip type JL-02:
> > The tip I used worked pretty good.
> > I used AmTech Tacky Flux, model NC-559-V2-TF. I bought it from Insat
> > on http://www.bga-reworking.co.uk/. They have other good soldering
> > stuff so check them out. I made enough of an order that they sent me a
> > set of tweezers and cutters. The tweezers are ESD and very precise,
> > the cutters have really nice blades but the spring shifts around which
> > is annoying.
> > It's important to buy the flux from an authorized distributor listed
> > on this page:
> > http://www.inventecusa.com/reps---distributors.html
> > You can find AmTech knockoffs nearly everywhere and obviously they're
> > not going to have the same chemical composition as the original.
> > Amazon has the knockoff, so does eBay. The flux is really important.
> > I first put the board in a "helping hand" stand, although I am
> > awaiting the delivery of an inexpensive pcb holder vise. Does anyone
> > know where to get aligator clips for the helping hand that don't have
> > the teeth? Much rather rubber jaws or no teeth at all? That would be
> > so much better. I might put some heat shrink on these.
> > I start soldering by applying a tiny amount of the flux to the board.
> > Then I'd add some Stannol SN60Pb39Cu1 to the pads. I have a 1.00mm
> > diameter 500g spool that'll last me, my children, and my children's
> > children a lifetime. I could use some finer solder though, maybe
> > 0.2mm, because 1mm really applies very quickly. I'm holding my
> > soldering iron in my right hand.
> > Next I'll take a pair of ESD tweezers and, holding the tape in my
> > right hand, I'll pry it open with the tweezers and pick out the part.
> > I'll put it on the board and apply heat to the top pad with the
> > soldering iron, then to the other pad. The part will not have settled
> > yet, so once it's held securely by the joints I'll let go with the
> > tweezer and heat both pads alternating between them until the part
> > settles. If it needs pushing in place I'll use the tweezer or a
> > spudger. I'm going to buy a magnetic knife holder thing for my
> > tweezers and spudgers which should make the process easier.
> > At this point the resistor pads will have gratuitous balls of solder
> > on them, so I'll remove nearly all of it with Pollin 1mm wick, order #
> > 840 030:
> > it comes out of the spool condensed so I twist it around until it
> > separates into a mesh. This way it'll absorb much more solder for the
> > same length.
> > At this point I might have to realign the resistor so I'll use some
> > heat and a spudger. I use these spudgers:
> > or at least ones that look the same. I don't know where I bought them
> > any more. ("Welding" is Aliexpress for "Soldering" and "Auxiliary
> > tool" is for "accessory", useful when searching for something)
> > The flux makes all the difference. I did the first resistor with the
> > flux, and it worked well. I did the neighbouring one without applying
> > flux, I just used flux from the previous one, and that was pretty good
> > too. I tried the third pad watching out not to apply any flux, and the
> > results were really bad. As soon as I applied a little flux the joints
> > cleaned up, and the resistor applied well. The flux also smells really
> > nice. I later cleaned it off with some 70% ethanol and normal q-tips.
> > I don't have a good light set up yet so during the process I used the
> > Black Diamond Revolt head-mounted lamp which I bought several years
> > ago, use all the time, and it remains like new.
> > It has an adjustable angle mount which was very important for soldering.
> > The nice thing about this soldering technique is that it gave me
> > really perfect results without much of a fight. I might still have to
> > practice to leave more solder on the pads, but the initial results are
> > very promising.
> > The one improvement I'd like is a different tweezer. A sideways
> > tweezer would be better, where the jaws curve in on themselves out of
> > the plane of the sheet metal the tweezer is made of. I haven't been
> > able to find one with a nice angle (say 75 degrees) and a fine tip and
> > ESD coating. If anyone has a suggestion, I'd love to hear about it.
> > After cleaning with 70% ethanol, the board still seems to have a bit
> > of a film on it, so if someone has a suggestion for a better solvent
> > for the AmTek flux, let me know please.
> > Hope this helps someone. If not, at least I had fun documenting what I
> > did in case I forget in the future :)
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