more MetalPhoto info
benedict at netcom.com
Wed Oct 23 18:13:24 CEST 1996
I'd think the paper cutter trick would work - provided its good and sharp
and the blade is aligned. It's essentially the same thing as a shear
for sheet metal. But I can't say for sure as I've never used the stuff
On Wed, 23 Oct 1996 Christopher_List at Sonymusic.Com wrote:
> > Well I happened to look at one of the sites today.
> > What I discovered is that they can do them ON 1/8" aluminum panels.
> > So why bother with the thinner stuff and hassle with glue when you can
> > just get them to do the whole faceplate itself? All you have to do then
> > is drill the holes, pop the pots and switches in and then bolt it onto
> your rack.
> ...yes, I saw this as well. The reasons are;
> 1. Shipping will be easier and cheaper for the thin stuff.
> 2. The versatility - like I mentioned before - of getting a sheet
> larger or smaller than the plate you want to put it on. Getting a full
> plate requires more agreement for everyone who chips in because it's hard
> to add/takeaway parts...
> 3. The stuff comes with a self-adhesive backing that sticks very well
> to anodized aluminum (yes, I've already called a place and I'm waiting to
> get a quote back from them). Just peal it off and apply - no muss no fuss
> no glue...
> 4. 19" x 1/8" rack panels are common for us, but not for everyone
> else. My experience with silk screening was that the cost for fabrication
> of panels - small run - custom - was about the same as going down to Sam
> Ash and buying them - and you can get them for up to half the price if
> you find some mail-order place like Sweetwater doing a blowout.
> 5. This also gives people the option of doing budget panels made from
> raw aluminum (not anodized), raw steel, or even plastic.
> I will get prices for doing it as plates, though. Who knows, maybe the
> difference is neglegable - in which case it'd be worth it....I'll post
> prices as soon as I get 'em.
> > On the issue of color, the company I was looking at,
> > Schilling's Graphics, can do a variety of things to an etched panel.
> > One of the samples of MetalPhoto I saw on the web used a gold metal
> > black lettering. Very sharp. Also less glare. :)
> Yeah, I saw that too - it was pretty sharp - looked almost like brass.
> I, personally, am leaning towards the more "traditional" with a satin
> finish, black with silver letters. I guess if we can get a decent number
> of people to go in on it, we'll have to take a vote :).
> I've already mucked up one attempt at getting something like this
> together for the ASM-1 (due mainly to the high cost of silkscreening) -
> but I'd like to give it another go. As you all know, I've got a layout
> that I think is really rad (cool symbols and dial markings - not just
> lettering) - so I'll probably be getting some of these made regardless
> [quick aside] Sad thing is, while I was one of the first to get an
> ASM-1 board, I still haven't built any! This was due mainly to a summer
> hiatus - but now I'm back in the flow. I just ordered the MAT-02's for
> the ASM1, just built a Moog filter (finally), and am working on a
> redesigned version of my 2 channel cv mixer that uses 2024's rather than
> 2164's and uses Juergen's method for 100% panning (long story - deserves
> another post) BTW, Juergen, the resitor network method works great! I've
> renounced VCAs with exponential CV response as heretical...
> One more question for Stew -
> How hard is it to cut the .005 and .012 thickness stuff - any idea?
> Will an office papercutter fold / screw it up? If this works as well as
> it looks, and isn't too expensive, I may get some sheets made to re-do my
> modular panels - and I'd like to do several panels at a time on 8.5x11
> sheets and just cut them up...
> - Chris
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